Christopher Kane. Pre-Fall 2020 - London

(Images from Gorunway.com. All rights. Used in promotion of the designer.)

Christoper Kane's Pre Fall 2020 collection is indicative of what will be in store for post pandemic collections that the fashion industry will face, which on the whole has shifted away from what we are all used to; the dramatics of runway exposure, crowds and jostling of retail buyers.  A newer dynamic has emerged that has not be seen before – and at this point in time, it is still feeling around in the dark, in its adjustment of showcasing presentations.  Particularly when the fashion industry was, from many perspectives, already trying to find a direction in a pre and post Covid-19 world.  Nature, once again, has forced the hand and its how we adjust to the change.

Fashion is about business, the selling and buying, as markets were already tightening up in 2019 and leading into 2020, the economic wipe-out that has occurred throughout the industrial world may not entirely be blamed on a non-conscious micro entity.  Debt and leverage bubbled up exponentially over the years and so did expectations of new markets and ambitions, that will become victims of this financial beat down.  While many independent designers throughout the last 5 years, raced to be snapped up by Private Equity and Venture Capitalist funds, there was also the rush to secure collaborative deals with major sports wear companies.  While the lockdowns that have occurred throughout the world begin to ease, Central Banks in their infinite wisdom are about to begin a financial experiment which is unheard of in economic history – they are going to buy and fund the 'junk bond' market.  That is primarily a venture capitalist orientated market.  So, things in fashion are about to become more and more chaotic, in the sense we may see, by a process of reduction, less and less brands.  Kane maybe one the last of the independent designers still standing. 

Ironically his latest collection is titled “Naturoerotica”, embracing, in an intellectual way, his take on all things erotic. As noted with my previous reviews of Kane's shows, the recut lingerie styles, overlayed with modernist looks, have faired well for Kane in his said themes.  And for his Pre-Fall lookbook, the 2020 collection, pre and post Covid-19, had him further reducing materials as a stripped back affair.  However, the exceptional tailoring and crafting of styles remain, in testament to Kane's focused and dedication to his forte. Away from the catch cry of slow fashion of the last few years, everything is going to slow down in a post viral world.  This will in turn show the skill of a fashion designer, in working on limited budgets and inventory to become more creative.  Kane for his PreFall showing has achieved this.  

Beautifully portrayed avant garde inspired Victorian themes to 1920s modernist fixtures.  Kane's Naturoerotica holds true to his more treasured of influences, 1970s hedonism.  The sexual aspects are still relevant in its romanticized vision of a bygone generation that lived between the Pill and AIDS, which could be the driving theme into 2020.  Fine wools, silks, lace, all set into interesting cuts that reveal tantalizing aspects, so it's not garish in anyway.  Kane's simplistic, yet decisively styled ensemble is apparent, without minimalist indulgence, rather, as mentioned, it is that creative challenged to utilize what is available from dwindling supply chains. Which Kane has be able to utilize and maintain for his stalwart themes with a dedicated finesse.