Chanel - Couture 2020

(Images from  Chanel.  All rights. Used in promotion of the designer.)



With Europe and America beginning to reopen in the shadow of the Covid-19 pandemic, there is a push and pull of what lies ahead on a hope of returning to the old normal and the unknown.  Fashion as an industry has been particularly affected by the massive changes due to the virus outbreak, fashion shows, as a buyer spectacle have ceased to exist, with September 2020 tentatively penciled in as a return of the traditional runway. There is an overall anticipation, economically, of the suppressed infection rates to continue.  But viruses and economics are terrible bed fellows, which in turn may only deliver a vain hope, as the Southern Hemisphere is now facing winter, have seen increased spikes of infections, with South America being hit extremely hard. So, even with the tricke of Resort and Haute Couture collections seen only as digital presentations, it will be curious how the Spring/Summer 2021  shows later in the year will unfold, as seasonal collections, more so now, have become token in name only.  To which one cannot dismiss the irony of Resort also known as "Cruise", when the jet setting and cruise ship industry has collapsed.  

Yet, fashion has an ability to begin a process of redefining cultural aesthetics in real time, with the latest Couture styles, in lieu of the pandemic, has seen more of a simplicity and scaled back process, rather than the traditional Haute Couture process.  Creative Director of Channel Virginie Viard, after taking the creative reigns from the late and great Karl Lagerfeld, has steadily defined her own imprint onto the legendary fashion house, in a precise and defined manner, yet also in a very respectful way to her mentor.  She has skillfully cast a refreshing light on the luxury brand, with her inventive themes and story telling reflected with the arrays on show.  What passes through has been laid to rest, what is now in the breath of life, this is the continuum that everyone has to face.  And Viard, obviously impacted by the viral outbreak, has drawn more of a sombre and muted collection, despite viewing her latest creation as an “eccentricity”, which was described by the show notes, there are clear overtures of early 1980s stylizations.

But, I feel apart from the nostalgic aspects, a darker more avant-garde feel has emerged with this collection.  The look book for Viard's Chanel Couture, like the ensembles on display, have an overall, as mentioned, muted and subdued tone throughout.  Viewed as some of the best lookbook photography I have seen to date.  It is skillfully set within the a mix of ball gowns and ankle length dresses, to the more risqué and as mentioned avant-garde styles. Which could be Viard playing with the fashion time line in trying to settle the traditional Chanel styles down onto a focused direction, hence the experimentation.