Meanswhile. Menswear Spring 2021 - Tokyo Fashion Week
There was a utility wear trend that was born out of the 2017 and 2018 fashion weeks, which was less avant-garde styled as far as the off set looks and asymmetrical cuts, but more of an industrial look akin to what UK designer Samuel Ross from A-Cold-Wall personified with his early collections, the trend had since petered out, giving way to newer tailored arrays. With some of the experimental designers who have risen the ranks within the fashion industry and are now creative directors for the larger fashion houses, the utility or post-industrial looks, although not as prolific on the runway, still hold a charm and it is interesting to see that the lessor known Japanese designers are taking up the mantle. One such designer is Naohiro Jujisaki, holding true to what could be and I will assay the trend as Post-Indust styles, began his brand 'Meanswhile' in 2014, sticking with the said formulation to which he has deemed as “a tool closest to the body”, Jujisaki clinched the 2016 and 2020 Japanese fashion awards, further testament of a designer who has not broken-the-chain his concepts and ideas.
As the 2020 fashion weeks have come and gone, with the established brands attempting to realign themselves with the old normal, all the while sales have plummeted across the board. The main engine of luxury consumption, China, is trying to come back on line, but with a now reported faulty and rushed vaccine for COVID-19 and their secrecy of how they apparently beat the virus, while the world is saturated in it, doesn't ring true. Such is, as my coined, post-indust wears some what fits the picture and with Jujisaki's Spring 2020 styles for Tokyo Fashion Week amidst a global pandemic – maybe everything is breaking down in a post-collapse world.
Jujisaki's styles have matured over the seasons, while his utility looks have embraced the avant-garde drapey styles, which, overall, appear to be an emerging trend for 2020. So, imprinting his cleaner industrial cuts with an overlay of the more dernier cri looks, thus a fusion of utility and rawer cut goth styles have emerged. That actually works quite well without falling into a novelty aesthetic. A delicate balance of the two styles to which Jujisaki has achieved in a captivating take on urban wear.
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