Saint Laurent Resort 2026 - Lookbook
Anthony Vaccarello returns to his sybaritic, hedonic overture ala the 1970s, which carried on well into the 1980s. After the grandeur of his Paris Spring/Summer 2026 showing, which topped the sexual allure with his leather clad "cruising" attire, in homage to the 1970s underground gay clubs scenes of New York City and San Francisco, the Resort 2026 collection aligns more so with the openly eros of the liberated 70s, 80s woman. And with countercultures beginning to slightly rev up around the world, thanks to Fascism breaking out everywhere, sexuality, when it is reclaimed from the misogynistic, digitized relay loops, is up there as the ultimate counterculture.
Sexual liberation, can be quite threatening to the conservative male. She fucks who she wants, when she wants, and it maybe not you. Incorporating for his latest lookbook collection, the melding of bohemian chic, lingerie outerwear, with that late 1970s Studio 54 - esque, disco, dancing and fucking under the threat of thermonuclear destruction. The delicious mix of devil-may-care of sexual energy and doomsday ethos; satin, lace, trench coats, high heel pumps, stockings. An overflow of amorous power, displayed through the extramarital affair or one night stand is very much on display for Vaccarello's Resort 2026 collection. Also note, the early 1990 windbreakers, which complement the collection, as a we did get a few decent years into the 90s before it all went down the chute.
And it could be argued, that the Three decades of counterculture came to a dramatic end when most of Generation X turned Eighteen in 1989, and the Berlin Wall was torn down, and in turn Gen Xers started rejecting hedonism for new found, yet wayward, ambitions of entrepreneurialism fueled by cynicism of their "boomer" parents, while embracing globalization as a good thing, taking on all that cheap credit, as conservatism begin to lurk within their psyche, with the promise, in the decade that followed, of extend mortgage markets, DVD players in evey lounge room. And their eventual leader, Donald Trump eyeing the White House.
So, can we, in a transgenerational wipe, clear out the whole of the 1990s? With a portion of the 2000s too? Why not? And conjoin to when we did actually had a counterculture, where analoge ruled, the differentials in our cities were clear, gentrification didn't exist, it was busted windows and graffiti, we loved sex, drinking ala cocktails, and yes cigarettes, if you were so inclined, and the ultimate protest was not to live in fear, while your new partner hands you a copy of J.G. Ballard's "Atrocity Exhibition", he meets you for coffee, and you're dressed in the said attire, you have a fantastic fuck after, you then go to anti-nuke war demo, fuck after that, and onto a club later, and yes, fuck again.
Let's abolish time, and live. Thank you Vaccarello, for the inspiration.
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(A.Glass 2025)
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