Y-3 Fall/Winter 2026, 2027 - Paris Fashion Week

(Images:  Y-3. 2026)

I am so fascinated by Yohji Yamamoto transgenerational flows, particularly after 23 years of partnering with Adidas to formulate Y-3, aimed at 20 somethings, Yamamoto via Adidas has kept that age group in hyperreal stasis as the years have rolled on, and we all age.  Yamamoto will turn 83 this year, and as mentioned in my Spring 2026 review, that the age process, particularly with the war-torn looks of the young models, remains evident of realizing that we do age, and we all leave this world.

The Y-3 collaboration was Yamamoto's attempt at commercialising his Avant-garde trademark looks of the last 50 years, into what was once known as 'sports goth', which other brands tried to emulate throughout 2000s, until it ended in 2018, and the Avant-garde, stylised, dystopian goths looks became less so as the plethora of labels that appeared, one by one, shut up shop.  Yamamoto, over the years with his Y-3 arrangement, as offered a more tailored, and less goth sport look, keeping in check with his all black attire, with his Beni crimson colours, and white iconography.  In this case for his Fall 2026 collection, a collaboration with Seattle graffiti artists "Chito", representing his rough outline skulls, and "Paris" and "Japan" tags.  The youthful exuberance has been represented once again by Yamamoto, this time, by Gen Z, as the Ys, since 2002 are all moving into their 40s, although noted was a single male model who appears to be in his early 50s.  However Yamamoto Y-3 time capsule, does hold a surrelity, as mentioned, of static timelines of the last 20 years.

And, it is Gen Z, currently laying down the reactive protest towards global Fascism, if you have crawled out under a bunker somewhere, the world is now being overly structured, compressed and repressed by techno-fascists and fascist leaders.  With, and it has to be said, very little opposition from the previous Generations, apart from Gen Z, who are doing this without a counterculture buffer, which is unusual in our modern history.  Despite being at the cusp of this historic shift, as a last gasp attempt by neoconservatives under Far Right Christian nationalist banners, attempting to rewrite society and history to align what they always wanted, it is still unknown where this will all lead too, if it can't be steered away from full blown Fascism.  Maybe very close to a thermonuclear World War, with that crazy U.S. President at the helm.  So, things ain't looking so good.

To which Yamamoto has insulated and layered the styles on show with an almost 'protester' - esque look, also noted, is the seriousness of the collection.  It feels youthful, but also grounded.  Expressive, but not intrusive, and in some ways quite flat aesthetically, which Gen Z may relate to, already showing the hallmarks of less ego and more reaction to global issues, however the ire of burnout and overstimulation is their ever presence threat.  All the while the runway models were surrounded by dancers in boiler suits, wearing wolf printed balaclavas.  Is this Yamamoto's subtle message that this current Generation are under pressure from all sides?

Can they change the world?

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(A.Glass 2026)