Louis Vuitton. Fall/Winter 2026/2027 - Paris Fashion Week

Can Nicolas Ghesquière's redeem himself from his Spring 2026 runway show, which exuded a 17th Century oligarch manifestation, which felt flat, uninspiring and in someways out of joint within his futurism timeline?   Well, he has, kinda, and returned back to the 1950s retrospection of a future that we never had, utopian landscape, ala Severance production designer Jeremy Hindle's retro-futurist runway.  Albeit, with more of a patchwork style, within his trademark symmetrical styling, by inserting the more rugged and defined attributes of his repertoire.

And Ghesquière's neo futurism reworks, have become more past oriented, rather than solely his 1950s modernist template he has relied on, in setting a standard for the famed fashion house.  This has not been a gentle fusion of an older utopian futurist timeline, but more akin to retrofitting, the 50s tomorrowland-esque arrays to stylized aspects of the past, which does indeed show up Ghesquière's creative intelligence.  In keeping his collections, new and innovating.

However, the collection, despite Ghesquière's redemption from his previous showing, doesn't push out a renewed interest of redefining the Louis Vuitton standard, under his directive.  And it does feel like, and I have noticed this before with Ghesquière's past collections a slight, maybe even subtle nod towards the avant-garde.   Yet, the regimented, and focused stylizations which Ghesquière is renowned for, seem even more enhanced, with a paradoxical criss crossing from expressive and experimental to stern and rigid.  And for the viewer, it is hard to discern if Ghesquière is indeed opting for a more postmodern, avant-garde mix.  Which may, or not be the case.

We await Ghesquière's return to form, which, at his point in time, seems illusive.

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(A.Glass 2026)