Beautiful People. Spring 2020 RTW - Paris Fashion Week.

(Images from the designer and the public domain. Credited to the 

photographer/company where applicable: Gorunway.com )

The lost-in-translation of Japanese obscurity when it comes to fashion design, particularly from its early manifestations via Paris couture in the late 1970s and early 1980s, is maintained under Hidenori Kumakiri's brand 'Beautiful People'.  An onward commitment with its charm and of course skill in reworking Western visual discernments within the Japanese ethos.  As discussed in my review of Jun Takahashi's brand Undercover, the astuteness of young emerging Japanese designers continue on with its traditionalism of fused aesthetics in light of the masters Yohji Yamamoto and Rei Kawakubo, as they draw on outside influences to create their unique Japanese labels.  Kumakiri, has been showing his collections in Paris since 2017, so as an emerging brand and designer, it is still in its infancy for the Paris runways and international markets, that would be no less than a daunting task to inspire the buyers attending.  To which Kumakiri has achieved with his take on shifting the dynamics of styles, more so for his Spring 2020 collection, into modular concepts. 

For Beautiful People's Spring 2020 collection, the functionality of Kumakiri's metamorphosis is explored further, as he reshapes an already made up garment into multiple looks.  Is clearly presented for his 2019 runway show with 24 looks in total from a single piece of clothing.  Which is admirable and conceptualized as a open statement to refining multiple styles from one item.  Entailing that from selected looks a wider scope of possibilities can be achieved.  Although Kumakiri's exposé of fabric and modular concepts would have been more suited for a studio environment rather than the runway, however for the overall collection he keeps it in step with his skilled cuts and pattern work, which are apparent throughout. 

As a former protégé of Comme des Garçons Kumakiri has melded the less modular styles of his collection with a finesse.  The lingerie as an outwear trend for 2020 is seen thoughtout; tulle, satin and fine wools.  Slip dresses and sheer ensembles, retaining the sentiment of alluring styles that have been seen predominately on the Spring 2020 runways.  Kumakiri's color palette stays with the achromatic of black, whilst experimenting with some plaid and screen prints – seen on some of the high waisted dresses.  There are moments, within the shape shifting styles,  that are diffused against the gothic overtures.  With Kumakiri use of subtle colors, but overall the collection holds an Avant Garde feel, yet at the same time it stays focused with Kumakiri's less dramatic styles on offer.