Junya Watanabe. Spring 2020 RTW - Paris Fashion Week.




(Images from the designer and the public domain. Credited to the 
photographer/company where applicable: Gorunway.com)


The trench coat and blazer looks are stalwart leftovers from the previous seasonal trends, that have lasted the distance.  Which is admirable, since both are formal styles, yet equally they can be set into a multitude of configurations via the runway.  As we move closer towards 2020, there seems to be a shift away from the more formalized styles, influenced by 1970s and 1980s power suit ensembles and the extravagance of runways of old.  However, the jostle between remaining fixed on the exuberance of luxury branding and the stripped down, bare essentials remains.  Spring 2020 has heralded an array of reconstructed stylizations, that are closer to Thrift 'store' looks and 90's outwear styles.  In between this, a trend is forming which may have a lot more to do with an economical reasoning than not.  Reduce the amount of fabrics used or reutilize the stockpiles designers may have stored at their various warehouses.  Either way an altered version of minimalism may be appearing on the runways.

Junya Watanabe has decided to offer a solution or at least from his viewpoint, to the vexation of both layered and reconstructed styles of the trench coat trend from the last 4 years.  A reconfiguring of the coat as a wearable piece, upon studying his Spring 2020 designs, it is hard to know if he has broken apart the coat and re-molded as a singular piece or added segments to it.  In an almost modular way, this is designer upcycling or recycling to which a nod of respect his given to John Galliano who, under his creative direction with Maison Margiela, has been implementing a patchwork of concepts by altering existing styles.  

Watanabe has set an impressive ensemble of variants to the traditional colored tench coat, there is some effective remodeling, particularly in contrast with the colorful tights and tops.  Regardless if he is offering a thrift style or lesson in how to make the most out of a disused piece of clothing.  The fabric used and fits are exceptional, Watanabe has ensured that the collection resonates the finest of even a couture standard for his Spring  2020 collection.     

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