Etro. Spring 2021 RTW - Milan
Etro, like Alberta Ferretti and a handful of Italian designers have railed against the digitalized version of Milan Fashion Week, instead have proposed that runways still fit the criteria despite a pandemic of a virus that is still an unpredictable scrounge, both with its infection rates, hospitalisations and deaths. Risks are on and bets all round, depending where one stands, yet on the moral count, most are adhering to the guidelines in trying to suppress the infections rate (and lesson the deaths), with a minority crying foul on freedoms. There was an amusing or tragic rant from UK prime minister Boris Johnson saying that England's soring infections rate is because Britons love freedom, with Italian President Sergio Mattarella issuing a rebuttal that Italians love their freedom just as much, but are more cautious. You couldn't make this stuff up, yet I might dust off some old Twilight Light Zone episodes for pop culture reference.
On the issue of freedom Veronica Etro, desire for an outside showing was shifted, due to nature raining on the parade, into a medium size storage area. From all reports, the masked crowd, with the ubiquitous few of on and off wearers, were somewhat crammed into the space, with models walking a narrow path between the largish crowd. Right or wrong and irresponsibly set up, the show went on, displaying Etro's Spring 2021 collection in all of its entirety. Which is as close to a Resort showing as you could get, allowing the range to be set at 40 pieces as a pre-seasonal offering, evoking the desire of a virus free Mediterranean Summer in 2021.
Without being overly cynical and in admiration of Erto's skill as a designer, one has to be aware of the absurd. The Spring 2021 collection is slick, rich and sexy, styled in all of its hedonistic abandon, which on observation holds an attractive appeal. The styles are imprinted with Etro's Italian finesse, with flowing caftans, silks, open blazers, fine wools and satin. The Venetian and Bohemia inspired prints are stunning and with enough modern touches, Etro's latest offering does not send this collection back into a nostalgic 1970s rework. However, in the shadow of a changing world, is does have a rushed aesthetic overall, not clinging to what occurred three decades ago, but rather, what was cherished from yesterday. A desperation to return, to what we once knew as the normal.
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