Undercover. Spring 2021 RTW - Paris

                                 (Images:  Undercover.  All credit)

My assertion that an reinvigorated avant garde trend for 2021 is probably on the money, particularly as designers emerged from the 1st Covid-19 lockdown with their latest collections, reentering the fashion world which has become, literally overnight, a changed landscape.  In all of this surreality there lies the total void of what might be ahead, which in its reality no one knows what will come next and this is the greatest challenged the industry will face.  Despite the political and economic technocrats saying, which is becoming comical albeit tragic in its mishandling, that all will be clear in three to six month time frames.  All the while it keeps getting pushed back.  So, future seasonal collections relying on hope for the old normal to return, which were the very few runway shows that occurred so far from Spring 2021, maybe missing the opportunity to adjust and rise to the occasion.

Jun Takahashi of his brand Undercover, who delivered a stunning theatrical performance for his last Paris show prior to Covid-19's beatdown, which was a mix of samurai mythology with Shakespearian overtures, has shown that he is capable in retracting back into the imagination, quarantine or not and deliver another ethereal style concept. However, Takahashi's delving into the surreal and avant-garde has not lost sight of the practical and functionality of styles.  An important rule for designers looking towards the more experimental side of fashion, is to be aware that the outlandish runways have creased to exist and with digital fashion weeks being what they are, a lookbook or video presentation can portray the skills and original ideas developed.  But, on the flipside, they will be studied in more detail.

For his lookbook presentation for Spring 2021, Takahashi has broken it up into six visual concepts, all sourced from themes that have western influences, from Picasso through to NYC punk rock ala, as described by Takahashi, the Patti Smith era, yet all have a unique fusion of dreamlike sequences that, for the most part seem attuned to Japaneses contemporary fantasy.  Yet, it is the clothes that show his skills in layering into a vintage thrift look, without looking dowdy.  There is a refinement in Takahashi's Undercover, which has moved away from predictability of street fashion by adding his own unique fixture of styles.  

And it is a very tailored affair, showing that even with experimental set pieces, the collection holds an artisan imprint, particularly the fits, to which Takahashi has mastered.  Ensuring that the waistlines and cuts are set correctly on the models as he angles towards the more dramatic of shapes. Allowing the intricacy and Takahashi's finesse to be seen, which is equally portrayed with each lookbook shot.