Gareth Pugh. RTW Spring 2019 – London Fashion Week

(Images from Vogue.com and wwd.com and the public domain. All rights. Used in promotion of the designer.)

Gareth Pugh's Ready-to-Wear Spring 2019 collection maintains his fixation on the late 1970s and early 1980s excess and hedonism which in all retrospective is a bygone era, with designers, like Pugh rediscovering a time that was not as conservative to what it is today. Our society, in a general sense, continues its flirtation with traditionalism (in all facets of lifestyles these days).  This could be attributed by the fact that all that was once risqué or underground, is now on the table for all to see. Like an exhibit, the shock value and impact that was created as a rebellion against the norm - is now accepted.  Partly to blame are the digital interconnected markets with so called 'equality' movements selling idealism.  The obscure in all of its creative glory are now just memories rehashed.  Sometimes the dark and hidden can be the most compelling and enticing.  To be accepted doesn't equate to power, rejection is far more empowering.

Gothic overtures mixed with vixen sex appeal. Pugh taps the excitement of 70s and 80s experimental  science fiction, more so the Avant-garde style of 1982 "Liquid Sky" (Haven't seen the movie as yet? Gay and cross dressing fashionista aliens descend on Manhattan trying to score some heroin) which has been an iconic movie inspiring a slew of pop stars over the years.  Also seen as an influence is  John Walters stylishly trash movies of, once again 1980s, underground cinema.   When I look at Pugh's Spring 2019 collection, the inspiration of a cult of personality, outsiders, as though they have arrived from another planet or parallel Universe.  That awe of detached superiority, inside knowledge about the latent fetish and desires of the general population.  A chaotic reflection, yet without any care of judgment or acceptance.  I like this collection a lot.

For Pugh's Spring 2019 color palette for his latest array, there are the fixed achromatic of black and white, the neon gothic sharp reds and modernist pattern work.  Stark browns and pinstripe grays as reworked blazers and suits, re-styled and cut to fit into a seductive pose.  Slamming up against the norm of the two piece suit look.  One of the  trends that carried on from 2017.