Olivier Theyskens Fall 2019 RTW – Paris Fashion Week

 

(Images from Vogue.com and wwd.com the public domain. All rights. Used in promotion of the designer.)

Olivier Theyskens Fall 2019 Ready To Wear collection is more akin to a Couture showing, setting a standard under RTW as fine tailoring, when viewing this collection, it sets a precendence in defining the crossover into sartor inspiration.  Which is important, particularly when fashion has a tenancy to become fast fashion in competing with the major conglomerates of branding.  So for a designer to remain grounded, focused and persistent with their brand and ideas.  It reflects an admirable visage.  Theyskens shows all the hallmarks of that refection and it is inspiring to see, as the fashion world losses an icon in Karl Langerfeld, the figureheads of aspiration may remain illusive in his wake.  But, for all us, within time, dedication and that enthusiasm to challenge the self.  Will fill the gap of loss, as to create and project an idea is born in its continuum. 

Theyskens is from the 1980s generation, born in 1977, living as a teenage throughout the 80s. Now in his early forties, there has been of late (noted from runway shows from 2017 and 2018) and re-visiting of the 1980s for inspiration.  As a member of that generation too, I can see why.  It was, in a relatively short period of time, transformed straight into the digital world to what we have today.  Via the internet, 'smart' phones and instant interconnectivity.  The 1980s held a resonance of possibilities, pre the Internet, it was more of a closed in time, confined within cities.  The insularity was not an negative, rather it galvanized the imagination - where the countless individuals, creative or otherwise were able to focus – rather than being easily distracted by social media and a duplication of news reports.  Interestedly for Theyskens's Fall 2019 collection, he has noted Ridley Scott's 1982 'Blade Runner' as an influence, citing the outfits that Rachel (The 'Replicant', if you are not aware of the Blade Runner costumes) wore in the movie. 

The collection sits between Theyskens twenty year backlog as a designer, so as much as he maybe quoting an early 80s science fiction movie as an influence, the showing for his RTW array is clearly an exposition of past styles since his first show during Paris Fashion Week in 1998.  So the originality is there with tinges of personal nostalgia. Which is fine.  

An elegant and sophisticated Ready to Wear collection, the exceptional, as mentioned, tailoring is evident throughout.  Sheer tops, with intricately set pattern work, satin skirts, thigh high splits, wool double breasted blazers and coats.  With the exaggerated shoulder pads and ballroom gowns.  Theyskens as ensured that his latests showing exudes power dressing and style, at times it feels a little harsh. Which I feel Theyskens doesn't pull punches, he hits with rigor.  But, subtle would work within this Fall 2019 ensemble just as well.  Keep it balanced and the viewer or the buyer interested. 

The colour palette stays within its neutral tones, with only one pink satin dress displayed and two sharp reds. That seemed a slightly inconsistent in relation to the overall collection.