Abasi Rosborough. Spring 2020 men's - New York

Images from the designer and the public domain. Credited to the photographer/company where applicable:  Abasi Rosborough)

Sustainability has become a necessary catch cry in the current fashion market place.  Accepting the accumulated waste that is manifested via an industry, to which the majority is from fast fashion.  Seen as one of the key aspects to maintain output at a rapid rate was to maintain profits and low cost.  Hence the China (and Vietnam) textiles factories running overtime to deliver the en masse stockpiles.  With designers now sourcing recycled and dead-stock material as an offset against the churning out of clothing.  The other issue is the amount of emerging fashion designers entering the market, all hungry for a place in the industry – despite offering cues that there is an effort to venture into the sustainability realm.  The main offering to limit the wastefulness and environmental impact, would be to reduce collections and the amount of styles on offer, which will be difficult whilst offering competitive pricing.  The trick to which the designers Adbul Abasi and Greg Rosborough have mastered is showing variants from one style, in this case for their Spring 2020 collection; 12 variations from a single suit pattern. 

For Abasi Rosborough's newest array, the duo designers have further minimized the garment process by duplicating all the styles prior as a virtual and augmentative reality perspective.  All fine within the idealism of reduction, but more so very effective when reducing the outlay of cutting and styling prelude looks.  Yet, the feel of cloth and crafting of styles before piecing a collection together may never lose its appeal as a hands on process.  Nevertheless their latest collection has, in its inadvertence, shaped a dark, brooding and futurist impression.  Which holds very little compromise.  

A darker shade and resonance  has been cast over their Spring 2020 collection.  It feels tough and focused, sidelining synthetics Abasi Rosborough has ensured that they have maintained their themed styles, under the digital imprint, with the use of natural fibers, jacquard prints, leather, mixed with wool, cotton, cashmere and linen.  Which in turn removes some of the hard and at times inflexible aspects synthetic materials can portray, yet it doesn't remove the darkness on show.   The male antihero, rogue and tough, both a saint and sinner.  As he walks between the stygian and light, to be one and against the natural construct - in a mastery of the self.  A very mature and defined ensemble by Abasi Rosborough.