Roberto Cavalli. Pre-Fall 2020 - Milan


(Images from the designer and the public domain. Credited to the photographer/company where applicable:Roberto Cavalli)


Roberto Cavalli the iconic late 1970s and 80's inspired Resort (or Cruise) Italian fashion brand as been struggling over the years, unable to gravitate towards the targeted sales of its luxury brand, in 2015 90% of the company was sold to a private equity firm Clessidra and in April 2019 the new owner filed for Bankruptcy Protection, unable to turn the ailing company around which has been posting income losses since 2013. Recently Clessidra has shut down all its US operations, with two of its creative directors quitting within a period of 4 years, the firm has placed the Cavalli brand up for sale, as a last attempt at on-selling the troubled company to a prospective buyer.  Even with an offer on the table from a Dubai based investment company the deal has yet to be sealed, so as a last gasp, with a company in financial limbo without a creative director.  The multiangled brand has released its Pre-Fall 2020 'Just Cavalli' range, traditionally aimed at the younger buyer. 

There could be a sense of irony here, as a sinking luxury brand, in its desperation at rejuvenating from a collapsed state, by aiming their sales towards the so called well heeled, brand hungry younge generation. Although in a market reality Just Cavalli is probably clutching at straws, yet they have been able to deliver a relatively functional array for its Pre-Fall 2019 styles, that, ignoring the overuse of the namesake prints on everything, has revealed a solid collection. 

However, the problem most of these luxury brands face is their mismatching of trends, as they try and pinpoint markets whilst sales continue to drop.  The mega Chinese buying machine could be spluttering, whilst in the West there has been a rediscovering and lust of brand names. Albeit in second hand or Thrift shops.  How does a designer then aim at this new desire for brand names from people who cannot afford to buy it? This a question that fast fashion may try and fill the void, but probably struggle, whilst suffering from the consumer backlash against waste in the fashion industry.  What is being reflected within the fashion industry at this point in time is the confusion and uncertainty on the streets. 

Just Cavalli Pre-Fall collection has touched upon elements of the hedonism of 1980s nightclub life, injecting aspects of 90's street wear styles.  It works as a newer dynamic, but has been viewed so many times from other brands as the main trend moving in 2020, so there is nothing new here per se.  A recopying of the current street styles, that for all its intended purposes can been seen everywhere - without the Just Cavalli logos 

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