Saint Laurent. Resort 2020 - New York

Images from the designer and the public domain. Credited to the photographer/company where applicable:   SAINT LAURENT )

Anthony Vaccarello has now firmly instilled his take on the Saint Laurent brand with its resounding backdrop that was its past brilliance of the late Yves Saint Laurent.   As seen with Vaccarello's Prefall 2020 Collection, noted in my review, his continued fascination of that late 20th Century hallmark for fame and fortune ala the NYC Chelsea Hotel 1970s mythos; and its faded echo of art and music romanticism, which in turn ensured, at that time, a decline into the crevasse of a drug (heroin) culture.  So, I avoid the fashion labeling of 'Chic' and its variants of descriptions in encompassing a so called trend, that like most trivialized aspects from its material culture, has been cherry picked via a moving carousal wheel.   Yet, when studying Vaccarello's latest array for Saint Laurent, one cannot help but see the correlation in a statement of modern culture, when the 1950s middle class collapsed into a cold war mess of counter culture aspects, driven by the iconic gesture of a celebrities status in the big city.  Everybody was going to be an artist, writer or actor, a budding aspiration to be elevated from the mundane - by their hopes and dreams.  Yet it crumbled under the weight of disppointmet.  

As mentioned I covered this briefly in my Prefall 2020 review.  For his Resort 2020 collection, Vaccarello has maintained the said themes and transversed them over to the West Coast into a Los Angles late 1960s to 70's centerpiece, as the darker side to the hippie era.  He has cleverly fused some of more cultist aspects of the time, that were heavily influenced by LSD and the backlash against traditionalism.  To which a collection of wayward personalties wandered off from the Hollywood Boulevard onto some of the alleyways and backlots, searching for a further meaning to life.  Whilst still captivated by the charisma of what could be a game changer. Yet, always lost. 

Sleek and styled YSL blazer/tuxedo looks, mixed with lace, leathers, camisole and sex appeal. A doomsdayish cultist appeal, Vaccarello has balanced a tougher and more enticing direction than the Prefall collection. The glamor has been toned down significantly, it is not a pretty ensemble.  But, pretty is not L.A. -  charisma is and it is vastly more powerful in its fleetingness.  There are nonchalant capes and miniskirts, plunging V-necks to which Vaccarello has maintained the intensified sexual liberated aspects of 60's and 70's counterculture.  I like this collection a lot. 

Despite reworking past romantics of bygone era's, there maybe a longing for newer generations to look into a time in history that offered, what seemed as a distinguished perspective of reality.  Away form the constant noise (and confusion) from the 24/7 digital feedback loops.  However, this maybe more of an illusion in hope of attaching a meaning via aesthetics of the past.  But, one cannot doubt Vaccarello's inclination to set forth a long overdue snapshot of the counter culture and rebellion, which for its intended purposes did promote an individuality and a distinction of style