Merlette. Pre-Fall 2020 - London


Images from the designer and the public domain. Credited to the photographer/company where applicable: Merlette)



Australian born designer Marina Cortbawi and her brand Merlette since its formation in 2016 has been able to create a sincere and focused attire that has not just relayed another catch cry of slow fashion, rather Cortbawi has taken her simple approach to fashion, labelling the brand as quite aesthetics.  In her debut Pre-Fall 2020 ensemble, she has pushed her latest collection into a spread of 27 different styles, which is now her largest look-book offering to date.

A delightfully spectral affair, Cortbawi has shown such a judicious ability to soften tones, which doesn't always mean colors this can also occur with fabrics, creating an intricacy yet also promoting their subtleness.  Clearly drawing from 1900s, more so 1910 styled women's fashion with a nice mix of couture inspired 1930 Parisian impression.  It is though the young girls from Joan Lindsay's 1967 iconic novel 'Picnic at Hanging Rock', who disappeared on Valentines Day in 1900, reappearing only as apparitions - caught between the fluxion of time and space. Cortbawi's fusion of romantics, occulist spiritualism and dark overtures have captured the coming of age innocence as a transition into maturity.  Ensuring a parallel reflection of her three year old brand now developing into established fixture as 2020 beckons.

Setting a precedence as a Ready-To-Wear collection, Cortbawi has ensured that the knitwear and fine wool pieces are promoted as the accessible looks on offer, beautiful ankle length and hemmed cotton and silk gowns, with plaid fine wool inspired 1930s suit pants and cropped blazers, keeping in tune with the cross over from the early early 20th century femininity and 30's crafted fashion.  The color palette remains in line with the subtle stylizations, staying true to the subtleness of its spectra like imprint for this collection.  A balanced contrast of rich blues, lavender and red, cleaverly weaved together by Cortbawi into a stunning Pre-Fall array.               

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