Louis Vuitton. Spring 2021 RTW - Paris
Louis Vuitton's Fall 2020 closing show for the Paris Fashion week in March of this year, will go down as one of the most spectacular, with its historic backdrop of fashions throughout the ages. All the while COVID-19, the 1st wave, was already taking its toll across Europe, with the shutdowns that promptly followed thereafter. France, more so Paris, was able to get the viral suppression rates under control in preparation of their frenetic opening for Spring/Summer, with Winter now approaching the Northern Hemisphere, well, we all know the rest of the story. Nicolas Ghesquière has returned the extravagance, via Louis Vuitton's monetary opulence, staging an all immersive experience, showcasing his Spring Summer 2021 collection at the the La Samaritaine department store in Paris, owned and newly renovated by the Louis Vuitton Moet Hennessey group. With 360 degree cameras and motion tracking, the concept verges on being both a live runway show and a interactive lookbook affair, very cleverly done with animated 'green' screens witnessed only by the ones viewing remotely, not the socially distant and masked audience in attendance. However, even with the carefully aligned positioning of the people seated within the La Samaritaine setting, there is an awkwardness to the crowd participation. The attendees seem out of place, like an unnecessary prop.
And it is the photos of the collection, which do far more justice than the digital experience, when looked at in retrospection, it was more of a visual showpiece rather than a fashion show. Ghesquière's flirtation with the 1980s stylization continues on, to which he has offered a parallel world view of the 80s that never was, confined to his romanticized version of retro futurism looks. The latest collection, all though is not as defined as other previous seasons, holds, in its presentation, an avant-garde appeal - as mentioned in previous Spring 2021 reviews, appears to be a forming trend for 2021.
Ghesquière's latest Ready-to-Wear collection is by far, in my opinion, the most seductive of his alternate Earth 1980s time lines, he did issue a decree that he was pushing for a unisex array for his latests looks, yet, as a term with its tedium of thrown around catchphrases. Only the feminine which, in a perfect fluidity, is able to dress in men's styles, it is rare, if not impossible for it to work the other way around sans a novelty. So, as an ensemble of looks borrowing from the masculine and grafting the styles onto the female models, for Ghesquière it's worked very well.
Oversizing as a technique is tricky, if you haven't cut the fabrics right, even with measurements, it can lead to a dowdy and over hung look. Most high end designer brands use lasers to cut the shapes, it's not done by band, Ghesquière experimenting with the wider fits and baggy styles, while they look well defined on the models shows not only his expertise in creating a collection such as this, but also the resources available. Courtesy of the Louis Vuitton powerhouse. He has stylized the larger fits, with a debonair impression, there are slight moments of artisan detailing, which ironically in tandem with the laser cut pieces, offer slight asymmetrical shapes throughout. Also noted are fabric pinched styles, which could be characterized, as a handcrafted avant-garde look, with its impressive and unique detailing. Ghesquière's pop culture references are seen as an overall expression, with the collection vastly toned down since the last Paris showing, offering only 43 complete styles in total."
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