Mugler. Spring 2021 - Paris

(Images:  Mugler.  All credit)

We live in interesting times, more so we haven't witnessed in over a hundred years, this global pandemic such as COVID-19 wreak havoc throughout society.  It has, by definition, brought governments, economies and medical systems under an extreme pressure, which could in turn face a systemic collapse of the hospital system if cases continuing to rise.  The Spring 2021 fashion weeks that have just finished, were, for the most part, a mad rush to return to the crowd induced runway, with a slew of shows that were inappropriately set up in both Milan and Paris just weeks ago as the two cities, and the whole of France is about to go into its 2nd lockdown, Italy, sans their political confusion, will be next.  As will the most of Europe.  The virus spreads amongst crowds. 

With runway shows now off the calendar indefinitely, digital and lookbooks have replaced the traditional live show, this is were the creativity, particularly the editorial photographer can rise to the challenge. Which has been seen with the Spring showings, some fantastic ideas have been used, maintaining the interest of displaying fashion in times of isolation and social distancing.  Casey Cadwallader, creative director of Mugler, has been a runway darling with his risqué sex appeal styles, modeled by an array of various body types. And like other designers of late, he has turned away from the beloved visual perspective of the catwalk, while at the same time not tempering down his desire to push the amorous.

For Mugler's Spring 2021 lookbook, Cadwallader has set his provocative tone, with a innovative set piece of 24 styles, representing the broad range of Mugler's clientèle list or at least representing the variants of celebrities that wear Cadwallader's designs.  The enticing array remains as stripped back and bare, yet seductively portrayed, clearly aimed at the A-list and well heeled buyer, yet beyond Cadwallader's sex and lascivious creations, it is his cuts that are so impressive. With Thierry Mugler's early incarnation of early 90's avant-gade, to which he must receive credit for introducing the asymmetrical and so called deconstructed styles to the evening dress.  Cadwallader has laid homage to the famed designer who has all but left the industry, leaving Mugler in name only – yet keeping the styles on offer, in retrospection, as an evocative stylization.