Simone Rocha. Fall 2021 RTW - London

 












(Images:  Simone Rocha)

Fashion designer Simone Rocha is the only daughter of '1990s' multidisciplinary and CBE titled Irish/UK designer John Rocha, who had a substantial imprint with his tapered jeans look as a sought after street styled thought out the early to mid 90's of the many celebrities who graced the style.   To which Simone's entrance, aware of her father's success, into the broader fashion world was through the widely recognized Central Saint Martins collage, graduating in 2010 with her debut collection Ready-to-Wear revealed at 2012 London Fashion Week.  Now eight years wiser as a seasonal designer, her showcasing at fashion weeks and has been of a consistent presence.   With lockdowns and quarantines still in place around the world, more so the UK and Europe where the devastation of 2nd wave of the virus of the tail end of 2020 has now morphed into what is known as a distinctly UK variant or mutation.   So, while the Northern Hemisphere begins to thaw out from a very cold winter, the mass vaccinations have already occurred throughout England, hopefully the societal adjustments are also maintained with the possibility that virus may not completely be abated. 

The modernist trend of 2019 pretty much ended in 2020, with the avant-garde and draped styles now center stage, as the darker and more gothic lineations have taken hold, which is understandable due to the tumultuous year that 2020 was, which has, in variance degrees, spilled over into 2021. Although Simone has always experimented with the layered and darkened styles, her latest collection encapsulates not just a further impression into the avant-garde, but also an intensity to the arrays presented.    Simone, for her Fall 2021 digital showing, described how disappointed she was in not being able to show in person via a live crowd based runway, but with certain designers at the cusp of Europe's horror of the 2nd Covid-19 wave, who actually did hold fashion shows, restraint and the ability, as mentioned, to adjust to changeling conditions shows character.  But, more importantly a responsibility.  All the power to the ones who chose a more creative route.

Simone Rocha's Fall 2021 ensemble maintains the unstructured look, with elements of modernist aspects, with her draped styles evident throughout out as are the layered Victorian esqe aesthetics that her young brand has been renown for, that at times, has merged conservative suiting styles. Leather jackets, tulle and silk inlays, from mini skirts to ankle length dresses, intermixing with the said styles, Simone has redeveloped her collection into a more serious affectation without it feeling ridged  or cold.   Yes, the gothic aspects are very much in place, but so is the determination of styles on show, with some beautiful patten work of flowers giving the collection a feeling of rebirth and a new beginning, yet, a flower always fades.   The continuum of life and its struggles, it's never a straight line of expectations within its overconfidence, despite what we have been taught and believe, chaos is where order becomes honed and Simone's collection created under lockdown, represents that contiued practice.     

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