Y/Project. Fall 2021. Ready-for-Wear

(Images:  Y/Project)

Glenn Marten's unique take on avant-garde and his deconstruction style clothing, has always found a balance between the functional and experimental. All within its amorous appeal via a pre-recorded runway show beamed onto the digital relays.  As Covid-19 continues to restructure not just the fashion weeks, but society on a whole, it is the adjustments that have occurred throughout newer mediums in displaying collections, away from the once normality of crowd gatherings. However what a new normal would be after all this is anyones guess.  While governments around the world scramble in a fumbled and uncoordinated way in vaccinating their populous, maintaining an economy as a priority has been the front and center concern, which probably was the main reason this all got ballsed up.  Life has a way and so does the human ability to endure, survive and create. Let the past go, we would have worked out it all out.  Maybe changed it for the better. 

Still, amidst a societal messiness, comes a persistence and Marten's for his Y's Fall 2021 collection, while incorporating a both men's and women's styles onto 64 looks, has been able to redefine the stylized concepts by individualizing clothing.   To which he has risen to the occasion, saying in conjunction with his Fall 2021 collection that, “We want to create beautiful clothes, which almost sometimes are objects or art pieces”.   It is, in compared to other Y/Project collections, a lot more tailored and defined, within its avant-garde fixture of breaking down traditional concepts of aesthetics, Marten's nevertheless has ensured that the femininity and masculinity of styles remain as a duel projection.  He rarely crosses the two over and this can be seen in his latest collection, admirably in a quote for the his Fall ensemble, “What I'm proud about is that at at time where everything has started looking the same and people consume visuals on Instragram so designers create easy commercial shapes for them to digest, we go against that.  And specially because of the pandemic, we decided to go “extra” against it.”

Utilizing wire inserts, the tweaked and stylizing bunching up of fabrics, Marten's consistent layering and oversizing of styles have been maintained, giving the collection a feel of distinct yet refreshing perspectives.  The cuts and shapes have a wave like feel, even with its clumpy looks, they have been skillfully styled and arranged with the fabrics of fine wools and denim, also noted are satin overlays on some of the women's styles.   Marten's toning down the sex appeal of previous showings, in replace of a more conservative, as mentioned, tailored affair, has aligned with sleeker pieces.  There does however appear to be, with this large collection, a clash between the avant-gade and modernist looks, which in some ways slightly detracts from the overall impression of styles on show.   As noted with other designers with digital lookbooks for their Fall 2021 collections, they may have overextended their arrays, thus what can occur is a dilution of newer designs from a pent up, post lock down, saturation of styles."

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(A.Glass 2021)