From the Chiasmus archive: October 19th 2019 "LANDLORD. SPRING 2020 RTW - TOKYO FASHION WEEK"

There is a Japanese film director by the name of Takashi Miike, who in the last 30 years has made a slew of what is considered cult Japanese cinema.  A projection of uniqueness that represents Japanese pop culture, crime and thrillers.  Integrating historical concepts with the fusion of Western and Japanese aesthetics mixed into an ultraviolent and at times bizarre, yet captivating presence.  A very original and unique director. Whose influences on Japanese subversive styles has been front and center, in idolizing the aesthetic cues of Japanese street and Yakuza 'gangster' looks.  The young fashion designer Ryohei Kawanishi with his brand Landlord, in my opinion has paid homage to the cinematic prevision of 1990s Japanese sub culture fashion ala Miike in his latest collection.  To which Kawanishi has (somewhat) hit the mark. 

Very street orientated, 1990s with a temperament that reflects early 2000 when it spilled over from the techno dance scenes of the 90's, with the obvious nod towards Tokyo street wear styles.  Whilst at the same time embracing the influences via the American street/sport looks, all reconfigured with the compressed streets, however Kawanishi's Spring 2020 offering feels closed in and slightly restricting as he has repackaged some of his earlier looks and magnified its neonlit ambiance to suit the brands urban appeal.  

From the petty 'crime' street wear styles to the more sophisticated Yakuza looks, there are variants of the zoot suits and blazers in all of their gangster charm. Which Kawanishi has been stripped down to highlight the outlandishness of Japanese contemporary street culture.  Overall the collection could have offered a little bit more in the way of Miike's 'gangsters', which would have matured the collection or at least elaborate more on the strange fusion of bold colors worn by the various criminals and hitmen of Japanese cult cinema.    

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(A.Glass 2019)