from the chiasmus archive: September 27th, 2018. "ANN DEMEULEMEESTER. SPRING 2019 – PARIS FASHION WEEK"

 

Sébastien Meunier is an extraordinary talented fashion designer, after being instilled as the creative director of Ann Demeulemeester by Ann Demeulemeester herself.  He has not only maintained the brand's visionary perspective of Demeulemeester, but also shown that he has the enthusiasm and insight to imprint an expression of originality into these namesake collections - with Ann Demeulemeester's Spring 2019 array a perfect example of an aligned Meunier showpiece.

As noted with previous reviews of Ann Demeulemeester shows, the Byronic (anti) hero/heroine of late 1700s and 1800s romanticism continues to shine through.   An acknowledged look into the darkness, the struggle of being alone as a fallen angel.  Yet, despite their pain and struggle, it is the dark to which they reign - unperturbed by the circumstances of life and the unforgiving presence of nature.  She or he are their own light bearers.  Meunier, ensures that we see these collections with the historic relevance to poetry that it deserves, a purpose to give life back to the self.  To release the burden of emotion is to live.  Such are the poets of yesteryear.

Yet, with Ann Demeulemeester's Spring 2019 collection there is more of Ghost story, leaving behind the resonance of past Gothic inspired shows.  This one feels colder, darker with more of an intensity within its projection.  A haunting affair, of which Meniuer has offered to viewers a spectra of figures eerily passing through the bleeds of reality.  Unsure where they reside in time.  

Thin black and white veils covering faces and heads of the models,  Percy Bysshe Shelley inspired cream satin, black and white coats.  Linen, overlays of fine wool and silk.   The veils maintain a distinction in this Spring 2019 collection, reinforcing the ghostly time displaced reflections.  Black and white continues with Meniuer's fixation on the dichotomy of Gothic styles.  Although this time the apparitions of the dead have yet to find a solace.

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(A.Glass 2018)