Excerpt: Saint Laurent. Resort - 2025

 

"Hedonism and/or the epicurean maybe catch phrases when portraying the cultural aesthetics of the late 1960s, all of the 1970s and well into the 1980s, but they are indeed appropriate when one reflects the said eras in all of its sybarite glory.  And the late Yves Saint Laurent who was by his definition the epitome of 70s carnality, which has been at times, reinvigorated by Belgium designer Anthony Vaccarello in fusing the timelines of the Saint Laurent's opulence and decadence to Vaccarello's current romanticism of the First Cold War.  When it was sex, cocaine, Studio 54, and the possibility of thermonuclear annihilation. 

However, Vaccarello who would have completed nearly 9 years with the iconic fashion brand, owned by the conglomerate Kering, in April of this year, despite mainly 'hits' with his taking of the reins of Saint Laurent in April 2016, there have been some misses with his upping-the-ante of Yves Saint Laurent's ardor of over 47 years ago.  The misses, in my opinion, are Vaccarello aligning himself to closely to Yves Saint Laurent's legacy and paying too much of a homage to the late designer's impression, also Vaccarello's dabbling with a satyriasis resonation of decades past, without, at times, a respectful overture.  To which I have described in many of my reviews of Saint Laurent shows to date..."

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Full review: chiasmusmagazine.blogspot.com/2025/01/saint-laurent-resort-2025.html

(A.Glass 2025)