Saint Laurent. Fall/Winter 2026/2027 - Paris Fashion Week


Can we fuck out of this global turmoil?  Not fuck ourselves up (it's happening anyway), but use sex, as the hedonic counterculture cue to unwind possible over three decades of compounded fascism.  And you say, 'you don't see it'?  Come on!  Trump, Europe, Middle East, human rights being eroded, minorities and immigration under fire, and if you do indeed call yourself anti-fascist these days you end up getting labelled as a domestic terrorist.  You seriously can't make this up, and it, if one does see it, we can, if you are so inclined, blame for this renewed fascist overture, on the complacency and arrogance of the Middle Class via Gen X.  Mixed with the over ambitions, we work hard, we play hard burnt out and frustrated Gen Ys blaming everyone for their digital aspirations not going anywhere, with conspiracy laced craziness, about the failing of Western society is all because of migrants.

And we only have the blessed Gen Z, pushing back on the Far Right of our society and its Ethological Dominance working in psychosis overtime, such as the madman U.S. President the world has ever seen.  But, without a counterculture buffer, the reactive is facing the Far Right dominance like no tomorrow, and isn't faring up too well, ala frayed nervous systems, frustration, police crackdowns, and scattered protests movement worldwide.  We are certainly in need of a counterculture, and yes, like no tomorrow .  And can luxury fashion within its own contradictions and cologremetrate overhang over a clue to how we can beat this thing? 

Anthony Vaccarello's hedonism and epicurean conjuring of the Late Yves Saint Laurent's three decades of amatory, is just that, a necromancy to what once was, and what could be in a hyperreal world of digital repetition.  So, for now, we can only find inspiration in the aesthetics, rather than a representation of what is actually occurring.  Saint Laurent embraced sexual liberation with gusto, and at the peak of his hedonic drive, he offered a visual representation of equality.  Why cannot women wear men's suits?   More so, the reversed sexual energy of the Tuxedo, and the fluidity of the feminine can, and does conquer this, sinpre by the 1920s, before Fascism revamped the global landscape.  The 1960s, 1970s and yes, the 1980s, ensured that we remain a firm buffer against repression.  And clothing was always that front line.

Single breasted blazers, no bras, plunge neck lines and seduction.  80s esque exaggerated shoulder pads, faux fur, leather styled see through jackets, lace, smokey eye make up., sex and seduction, with the whole collection portrayed in dulled Earthy tones ala the 1970s.

If the 1920s bohemian influenced the beginning of the counterculture years over 65 years ago, will we find inspiration in the mid point of those liberated years fifty years ago in the 1970s?  We are certainly reflecting the 70s transgenerational timeline of global turmoil.  And by reclaiming a renewed sexual liberation, it may indeed set us all free.

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(A.Glass 2026)

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