Kiko Kostadinov. Spring/Summer 2027 - Paris Fashion Week

(Images:  Kiko Kostadinov 2026)

Deanna and Laura Fanning return for Spring 2027 Ready-to-Wear, delivering, as they did for their Spring 2026 collection, the avant-garde, sleeker thrift, match and mix looks, with their modernist, scifi stylisations.    Held at the Conservatoire National des Arts et Métiers in Paris, and if you are interested in the historical significance of the venue, established in 1794 during the French Revolution, by Abbé Henri Grégoire, who was a French Catholic priest, and revolutionary leader during the French revolution.   So, the choice of venue space to host the Kiko Kostadinov Spring 2027 collection, offers a sort of nostalgic futurist perspective, considering most of the inventions within the museum area, are of the steam in investinessess, which was prelude to the carbon propelled engines which came hundred and fifty later.

So, are the Fanning's try to reinvent or reinvigorate their already impressive backlog for the Kiko Kostadinov template? Decreeing for their latest collection, that they feel more inclined to play it safe, than take risks, which is interesting because their avant-garde and modernist blending is actually has a risqué overture, and they are now 17 seasons in, with the first Spring/Summer collection in September 2018.  The sisters may have reached their peak, in regards to creativity, which doesn't mean that there is a decline, just a reworking and cultification of skills honed, as they move closer to their ten year mark for the Kiko Kostadinov label.

Drawing inspiration for their Spring/Summer 2027 collection from Italian avant garde artist Nanda Vigo, who passed away in 2020, and was one of the pioneers of the late 1950s and early mid 1960s "ZERO" art movement, which portrayed, though sculptures, art and performance work, of returning back to a zero perspective, an artistic reset, with just light and time as the original creative foundation.  The Fannings, despite the mostly darkened space for the runway, only to have models pauses under beams of light, revealing their latest collection, was certainly a risk.  In the sense, the audience in attendance, and members of the fashion press, would either understanding the subtle cues of the runway show, or not understand it at all, and therefore critique the show and collection, rather than offering any praise.

And unfortunately the collection does feel flat, uninspiring, and pale in comparison to their last Spring/Summer collection which was vastly more risqué .  The patch work modernist elements are on show but less stylized and more boxy, and dare I say, oddly fitted, which makes me think that the Spring 2027 styles were rushed, pre this year's runway showing,  As schedules become tighter, so do the standards, sans the performance, the two work in tandem, if one fails, both fail.

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(A.Glass 2026)