Haider Ackermann. Spring 2019 – Paris Fashion Week
Once again, reviewers of some of the latest fashion shows has broadcast that the Unisex fashion array is clinging to significance, which in fact it is fading fast as what is thought could be a future trend or catch cry. What is usually misunderstood and it is deluded perspective are the money flows in and out of high end fashion; the market is monetarily driven, so therefor fashion markets cannot be sourced or sold towards a possible trend if it doesn't exist, once realized at the 11th hour they have to reshape those perspectives very quickly. This was seen with the recent Céline show (please review to this link for the review). Individual designers, clever ones can subtlety implement changes to adjust for rebellious cues (which is personal), other maybe stuck with the delayed idealism via what seems like a ground swell of change which it is not. The noisy and mostly poor using the corporate landscape of social media platforms, to what they believe the future should hold under a Utopian digital wonderland. May not herald a new market due to lack of income. So, it is a misguided aspect of what unisex means as broader theory in fashion i.e men and women switching styles and looks - the more appropriate term is androgynous, which in turn continually needs to be reminded, that a woman looks good in male attire, men do not look so good dressed in a woman's ensemble - unless seen as a novelty. Our society, despite all these aspects of cultural discourse is actually more traditional than not. These feigned rebellions of bought and sold 'influences' from media outlets are meaningless.
Androgyny is purely a feminine skill. However, the question remains how much the corporate fashion houses maintain branding clothing to appeal to general markets under the androgynous selling point. It might have a short season. Regardless Haider Ackermann is a master and no follower of trends. He makes them.
With all that being said, I am a fan of female androgyny in fashion and Haider Ackermann's Spring 2019 presentation falls directly intro the androgynous appeal of males styles fusing into female looks. This is not a new direction for Ackermann (please refer to all my reviews over the last five years 1.link 2.link). Although this collection is his most obvious in relating male aesthetics onto the female form. Beautifully cut and crafted clothes. The duel sex collection, with both male an female models representing the Ackermann's Spring 2019 collection, it has a flow and rhythm of sensuality. Ackermann has cleverly tweaked the female reflection of the overall male collection with feminine overtures, in all of its distinction.
Such an impressive collection for Ackermann, his color palette remains poignant, dulled floral tones, sharp yellows and coruscate golds. Traditional and masculine checkered patterns. White and black as a based fixture with the military green seen on some of the pieces, of course I am a fan of Lapasse stripes on pants.
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