Situationist Spring 2019– Tbilisi Fashion Week

(Images from Vogue.com and wwd.com the public domain. All rights. Used in promotion of the designer.)

Irakli Rusadze has, as noted with my review of his Fall 2018 collection, offered a softer and more romanticized take on his mix of French and Italian styles such as Mugler and Ungaro.  Which looks like a continued progression of refinement of his brand Situationist, whilst maintaining and representing the uniquely and fiercely proud Georgian fashion scene, that has successfully, in reference to fellow brand Vetements – been able to sell into the broader fashion market.   And there is probably a good reason this has a occurred.  If in degrees of promoting (American celebrities have assisted), in Vetements case, anti-fashion attire.  Rusadze has held true to styles that have been born out of visible repression and freedom of expression in these former Eastern Bloc countries, this in turn has shaped his clothing designs, that, as mentioned has pushed forward a uniqueness. And if one can call Situationist a 'protest' inspired array of styles, in would hold a lot more sincerity to Gucci and Celine's (under Phoebe Philo) failed attempts at sourcing 'protest' markets in the West.  To the extent, that chasing future trends of thousands of graduating Colleges students within their moments of ranting and noise making on the Internet, is more of a overblown mess (that may fade very quickly), rather than an anticipation of en masse buyers of social sensibilities – simply put, they have no money.  However the ones making money from this culture war are the organized and well funded right wing commentators.   The irony and misfire of the major fashion houses and Hollywood is amusing to say the least.      

The theme of  Situationist's  show was an clever objection against the Tbillsi police raiding and attacking patrons of a Rave, which as held previously within the same venue as Situationist Spring 2019 collection.   Initiating  Rusadze to print t-shirts with the hashtag protest phrase as a benefit for the closed down club.   But, as mentioned, despite the theme of rebellion against authoritarianism, the collection encompasses a more formal, less rigid style from Situationist.  There is Rusadze's directness and intensity, but toned down into a more refined and straightforward collection.  

Rusadze, in my opinion is one of the most talented and focused designers in the fashion industry and the moment.  His cuts and shaping of styles are exceptional.  There is a passion and enthusiastic drive in maintaining his brand, which in turn ensures that it not only sets a precedence for the Georgian fashion scene, but also expresses to the world that fashion and trends need not be captivated by the West as a sole impression onto the fashion industry.   The East have their stories, and in their details, you can see an inspiring refection.

Situationist maintains the dulled and neutral tone palette, which keeps in line with the fixture of Rusadze's post-Communist  modernism colors,  industrial and gritty, but also beautifully matched into a collection which holds a blunt and subtle appeal.