Iris Van Herpen. Spring 2019 Couture - Paris Fashion Week




(Images from Vogue.com and wwd.com the public domain. All rights. Used in promotion of the designer.)

Iris Van Herpen maintains her, and yes this is my term ala art manifesto, Xeno-Structuralist inspired array (if you are interested in the background and thought behind Xeno-Structuralism please refer to my 2017 novel CATACLYSMAL).  As noted with her Spring 2018 collection, she pursues an idealism with clothing that is created under her 3D printed clothes and accessories, allaying the fears of an industry that mistakenly foresaw as a threat. The three dimensional printing of clothing and the fear of removing the traditionalism of the cut and sew techniques were overblown.  The ire of fashion, as it stands now, is fast fashion and how that may push down pricing and essentially squeeze out any designer that is trying to set exclusivity into fashion markets.  3D printing of clothes is an expensive endeavor, one that Van Herpen has expertized on her own for over a decade. 

For her Spring 2019 Couture collection she has maintained the multi textures of completed 3D printed dresses combining overlays of silk and plisse techniques, folding the styles as flowing elements of color and design. The fitted 3D molded styles, as mentioned, now hold a distinction to Van Herpen's take on couture. Which is fine, as her techniques are intricately honed and developed into a stunning arrangement. Van Herpen doesn't stray to much into the metaphysical world, more the practical wold of science and the possibilities of future. The study of DNA, the modification of human being to become more structured – maybe to cope with changing environments on Earth and other planets in our solar system. The collection holds onto the hope of human ingenuity mixed with the pleasing aesthetics of defined style, further realized with her collaboration of an ex-NASA engineer Kim Keever. Seen with the Organza dress, which appears to be digitalized imprinted floral designs, which fuses colors so well, particularly the blending and fusing the spectrum of colors under a digital rendering. Philosophically Van Herpen's collections utilizes technology as a way out for our problems, a scientific (and technocratic) solution. Yet, it still remains illusive as a reality, seen only within the realms of science fiction – that, at times, portrays it as an imperfect contradiction. 

The color palette is a stunning mix of floral impressions and fusion, it is nicely toned down and enriched with the power of digital printing, all portrayed and intertwined with Van Herpens molded 3D designs and set pieces. A beautifully collection.

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