A-Cold-Wall Mens Fall 2019 – London Fashion Week
Samuel Ross, as the creative habitue of his brand A-Cold-Wall pushes forth his mens Fall 2019 collection, which, in my opinion, from 2018, he was the stand out designer for that year. And from a visual perspective, away from any deep analysis; he is creating street-wear that should be re-titled Structural-Wear. A unique and non cliché take on the so called dystopian styles, that many young designers superficially embrace, but are unable to maintain the originality In comparison to Ross's post industrial and reshaped Avant-garde styles that to me represent an overconsumption via a digitized and globalized world that maybe at a tipping point; despite the internet oracles out there, what lies in front of us is unknown territory. So, to have aesthetics attempt to write an open narrative is an estimable approach and as mentioned Ross is leading the charge.
The old and famous Brick Lane (London) is used as the backdrop (noted with his last show at the Truman Brewery, East London) to represent his Fall 2019 array, once again Samuel Ross has manifested a performance piece interjected into his runway show. He cleverly fuses art installations to match social imprints, whilst maintaining ambiguity at the same time. Which in turn makes an audience think and fashion journalist too think harder. From all retrospectives whilst studying the show highlights, there is a theme, also purported within the show notes and via the designer, that Ross is setting up discussion points in regards to the fluctuation of a world polarized. Utilizing two water tanks of 'black' water, representing the weight and uncertainty within a period of our history that maybe switching from the borderless open trade Utopian idealism to a vision of an isolationist and conservative world – which one could see under both idealistic repercussions of each other, a dystopic cityscape was forming regardless. The question could also be asked. Can one live within the balance of this polarized world of extreme opinions? Which are now beginning to shape politics into tangible forms i.e swinging across to the other side of dichotomy politics. Or does the group mentality, devoid of individual viewpoints sweep everyone to the other side of extremism. Backlash has always happened and I feel history is repeating. To which we failed to learn from prior miscalculations. Or maybe it was inevitable. But, to ignore the working class who have been allocated via technocratic institutions and told what is good for them, will ultimately rebel against what they feel is an encroachment on their lives or individual rights. So, it may not be as simple to say that there is a growing fear of nationalism and right wing politics without understanding the root cause and poverty is always the number one reason, mixed with government (feigned intellectualism) meddling and misreading of votes (markets) is another. Hence, in this simplistic observation, is the creation of divides.
See, Ross makes you think. I bow in respect.
A-Cold-Wall Fall 2019 collection holds true to Ross natural ambiguity to work the subtle and blunt styles as dual contrasts and reflect them into a single unique look. So impressively achieved, clean shapes and fabrics as a nod to his Graphic Design roots and he is only young at 27, yet, he hasn't plagiarized (I've seen it so often) 1960s modernist styles onto the runway. It is truly uniquely his, moving away from the overdrawn Avant-garde use of black and asymmetrical cuts, rather Ross has infused dulled color palette tones and post-industrial (or post-recessionary) color trends of a construction boom that may end in a dramatic manner. Half finished structures across the cityscape. One wall painted in its dulled hues, the other left with its raw rendering exposed. Incomplete. Yet, it can be used as an aesthetic fixture. That is what art can achieve. Synthetic and technical materials, wool blazers and leather trench-coats, which is the trend that has carried on from 2018. An eclectic, yet organized assemblage of square inserts and symmetrical styled clothes.
In a anarchic viewpoint of contradictions. Is where we may find the solutions.
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(A.Glass 2019)
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