Yohji Yamamoto. SPring 2024 Men's - PAris Fashion Week.
There is one look that many Avant-grade fashion brands over the years have tried to achieve, but many have failed, and it is of the worn or used styles. A tricky aesthetic to devise into a fashionable concept and more or less it does lose out to the desire for the factory new, rather than a second hand stylization. The thrift looks of the last five years did not materialize as a marketable product, this maybe testament ala the ex-creative designer of Gucci Alessandro Michele attempt at redefining Gucci. And it was the clean corporate branding of the iconic Italian fashion house that held out in its materialist cue, for the many wishing to be graced by its polished exclusivity. Despite Michele's fascination with these worn and second hand styles, as a beloved homage to the longevity of exclusive designer brands like Gucci. In the end, it was a short lived representation.
However, the master Japanese designer Yohji Yamamoto has been breaking down and revamping his own signature label for over forty years. With his recut looks, weaved into its worn styles of asymmetrical cuts and layering. That can only work as a fitted look utilizing the finest materials, such as merino wool blends, cotton, linen and denim. There is no mistaking the cultivation of practice that Yamamoto, has achieved through his long standing career, and more importantly his own artistic distinction. Yet, it is his men's collections representing these worn and aged looks, that maybe a reflection of the master himself.
As such is the significance that this aging designer has had on the fashion world. Although, there may be a tiring sentiment occurring, what cannot be said is the lack of commitment that Yamamoto has in maintaining the seasonal fashion shows. And his Spring 2024 showing highlights these stylized and bedraggled looks seen from his previous men's collections, with a refinement of the late 1970's punk styles ala the late Vivienne Westwood's to Japanese Avant-garde art movements of the early 1970's. With safety pins, hanging jewelry and collage inspired prints, Yamamoto's latest array is less serious than his previous men's collections, whilst allying itself with the said vintage styles. Overall the collection exudes a charmed radiance.
And if one is to look closely at some of the accessories, you would see the dragonfly pins. As seen in Japanese mythology, the dragonfly represents 'victory' and 'determination'.
Yohji Yamamoto is still here.
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(A.Glass 2023)
All Yohji Yamamoto reviews to date: chiasmusmagazine.blogspot.com/search?q=Yamamoto
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