EXCERPT: RICK OWENS. MEN'S FALL 2024 - PARIS FASHION WEEK

 

"...Another noted aspect to Owens unique stylisations, is that he rarely crosses over into fluidity between masculine and feminine styles.  The shows, are quite distinguished.  With his male ensembles fixed deeply, at least in a homoerotic manifestation, within the masculine.  As the women's showpieces, as seen from previous runways exposes, are leaning towards the Oracles of Doom, graceful necromancers that emerge from the void, whilst being engulfed by its darkness.  The men's collection hold a more aggressive tune.  A defiance, to which overshadows his Oracles, in their acceptance that we are at the beginning of the end.  Despite being warned.  Maybe we have it coming.

I like the Doomsday ethos of Owens's femininity, yet as the clever designer that the is, the masculine maybe seen as determined beacon, appearing to offer a lesson that we must defy our predicament of natures disregard, and our own folly.  And see it through.  But can he do it without instigating more destruction?  Owens Fall 2024 collection offers an ambiguous clue, holding the show at his own house and studio in Paris, as a way of showing humility, and in Ownes words, "A respectful move in observance of the barbaric times we are all living through".  The aggressive elements of the Owens past men's shows have been toned down.  In his latest array, the models are more shielded, padded and protected from the world.  In an escapist way.  Despite an illusive counterculture, which is yet to materialize, humanity remains at its 11th hour.  Maybe the true rebellion will not be in defiance, but unplugging and escaping from all this turmoil.  A complete rejection.  Are we brave enough to do it?..."

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Full review: chiasmusmagazine.blogspot.com/2024/01/rick-owens-mens-fall-2024-paris-fashion.html

 (A.Glass 2024)