From the Chiasmus archive: Haider Ackermann Ready-to-Wear Fall 2018. Paris Fashion Week. Posted March 27th, 2018

(Haider Ackermann 2018)

Haider Ackermann for his Ready-to-Wear Fall 2018 collection maintains his seriousness and continues on with its militaristic tinged styled collection (noted in my review of Haider Ackermann men’s fall 2018) , seen as padded survivalist style long and short coats, mixed into its alluringly 1980s carefree desirability.  Portrayed in an overt, yet toned down fluorescent, tights, leopard skin prints and disco-esque ala Studio 54 hedonistic sex appeal.  An interesting fusion, very original in its artistic perception as Ackermann decreed a theme for his new RTW Fall collection, which he described as the “Strange times” which we are currently living in.

If there is a sentiment portrayed with this collection in-which Ackermann refers to what is strange within our current times.  From an external observation one could say and be aware that our societies are amidst of a pre-dystopian decline, in relation to what was the failed collectivism of a globalised world.  That paint is rapidly peeling on the Potemkin ‘global’ Village, and if the 1980s influence, as seen with many of the 2018 collections have been an inspiration point for many younger artists (and musicians) it could be what was clearly discerned within that period.   Which was a raw clarity between the wealth and the widespread poverty of most Western cities in that period of the 20th Century.   In turn, which can be argued when one views a clear divide, the observer is able to distinguish reality, rather than hastily covering it up in our digital social media world in waves of hastag distractions.  All the while interconnected global trade markets maintain the fixation that all is well, as the reemergence of a new cold war and tensions between the West and East grow in fervor.  The new threat of nuclear war is now a reality.  Looking to the past to draw from as an inspiring proclivity can be helpful, especially if used as a reference of history.   Fusing it to the contemporary.  But, if sourced in a search to be comforted via a poplar culture period that is long gone,  may provide no real clues about a future.  Only frustration.

So therefor, if Ackermann’s references “Strange…” as a explanation to these times.  This strangeness may offer an excitement rather than a fear.  As we move away from the failed interconnected polices of a global world and their illusions of safety, to what maybe be unfolding before us could be seen as a natural adjustment.  A new dream.

Haider Ackermann’s Ready-to-Wear Fall 2018 collection pushes forth his established color palette set beautifully within satin, silk, wool and polyamide as a material backdrops.   Sharp orange, yellows and greens intermixed with softer pinks and dulled browns.   With the mix of black and white.  Blazers, rugged style coats and jacket, that as mentioned maintain the 2018 trend of mountaineering/military inspired collections.  1980s delicate flair which maybe showing  Ackermann’s mentioned “Fragility” for this collection.  Yet, the rawness and intensity of the Fall 2018 collection maintains an austere temperament.  Facing the unknown without being perturbed by the darkness.

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 (A.Glass 2018)