Excerpt: David Koma. Pre-Fall 2025

 

"...Juggling between his newer appointed position as creative director for Blumarine, with a debut show coming up very soon for Milan Fashion Week, and the David Koma signature label.  Admiringly ensuring that his own styliations remain a presendance, at least chronologically before the up and coming Blumarine showing.  Koma has upped the ante of drawing in and reflecting the intensity of the Bond villainess, in all of her ruthlessness, lacking empathy and sexually driven, insatiable behaviour, that we, without admitting, admire her resolved detachment.  Despite the fact, she is usually killed by Bond at some point in that fictional melodrama. 

Koma's Pre-Fall very much holds an edge, in its ruthless carnality, as an fervent honesty that the 1970s and 1980s held in regard, that being sex and power ala the James Bond ethos.   The styles have, as you would expect, a sharpened aesthetic, it is cocktails and cyanide, sex and death.  While dancing on that edge, the exciting dilemma that the mythical Femme Fatale, over the course of the evening, may indeed be my demise.  Sleekly defined, with its 70s modernism of silks, sequins, leather and an abundance of faux fur.

As Koma aptly described his latest collection to be a representation of the "...confident, empowering, and dangerous" woman, his lookbook certainly offers that uncompromising decree.  So, stare into her cold eyes, whilst complimenting her outfit, style and presence.  Yet, when the evening draws to an end, she may not even care what you think."

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(A.Glass 2025)

Full review: chiasmusmagazine.blogspot.com/2025/01/david-koma-pre-fall-2025.html