Excerpt: Rick Owens. Men's Fall 2025 - Paris Fashion Week
"...I have been reviewing Rick Owens collections since 2012, and was able to write a retrospective in 2020 for a U.K. fashion magazine of Owens shrewd beginnings of his signature label which originated in L.A. in 1994, concluding with his first New York runway show in 2002. With Owens a year later, reinventing himself, after his relocation to Paris, while setting up his factory in Concordia, Italy. Which has been an ongoing observation of Owens, to this day.
And it has to be noted, there are at times a paradoxical contrarian sentiment to Owens stylizations, apart from maintaining the dark, gothic and doomsdayish ethos, there seems to an insertion of contradiction, or at least an out-of-place overlay, be it from the show notes and press for the runaway shows, that doesn't always seem to reflect Owens's own stygian reflection, as an overture of oblivion. From Owens 'doomsday oracles', to his male counterparts, that are beginning to look like scantily clad vampiric warriors. The spectra of death is an ever present shadow at an Owens show, noted with his recent grandiose Hollywood Babylon shows that were orchestrated, outside the Palais de Tokyo, as a large cult like funeral possession. And for his Fall 2025 collection, Owens has returned to the underground bunker like interior of the Palais de Tokyo, the stalwart 1930s landmark which Owens has claimed as an eternal backdrop for his collections of the last 10 years..."
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Full review: chiasmusmagazine.blogspot.com/2025/01/rick-owens-mens-fall-2025-paris-fashion.html
(A.Glass 2025)
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