Excerpt: Rick Owens. Spring ready-to-Wear 2025 - Paris Fashion Week
"With the structural backdrop, once again, being Rick Owens stalwart Palais de Tokyo monolith stage, a building constructed in 1937 and designed in its classic Art Deco style. As noted with my Spring 2025 menswear review, that the temple impression of Owens immortalization through the seemingly longevity of structure, seems to be now imprinted onto the once Los Angeles resident psyche. And for all the Fashion Weeks over the years held in September, Owens has mostly staged his runway presentations within the Palais de Tokyo's outdoor tomb like setting. And it nearly didn't occur, due to the persistent rain. Alas, with a break in the weather Owens 'Babylonic' Hollywood grandeur was able to take place.
In all of its similarity to Owens showpiece in June of this year, as a grand production with its running theme which occurred from his pandemic 2020 collections at Libo beach, Venice, that being of an apocalyptic vision. Revealed as Owens's fog inspired smoke machine effects, that the late Russian, American poet Joseph Brodsky, once said about Venice's 'nebbia' or haze, "...The effect is as though some raw hand had turned all those enfilades inside out and wrapped the lining around the city. The fog is thick, blinding, and immobile...". Brodsky equated the nebbia as a time for self reflection, of writing and creativity. The pandemic in a lot of ways offered that, without consciously doing so, instead there was the unnecessary anguish that time stood stand still and freedom of movement had been restricted, gaining itself as a chorus of fearful conspiracy theories. Being over structured, with overconfidence is disastrous for a society, particularly when a cataclysmic event does hit us. We do not cope. Instead, we have all sped up post-pandemic into a frantic stupor, straight into inflation, the Far Right of politics and genocidal wars. A human curse, by our own folly. No one else is to blame..."
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Full review: chiasmusmagazine.blogspot.com/2024/09/rick-owens-spring-ready-to-wear-2025.html
(A.Glass 2024)
Fall 2025 review soon.
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