Excerpt: Saint Laurent. Fall/Winter 2025 - Paris Fashion Week

 

"How do you define the peak of Anthony Vaccarello's hedonistic imprint?  Ala the late Monsieur Saint Laurent's brilliance.  As noted with many of my reviews of Vaccarello's Saint Laurent, Vaccarello has been able to lift the Yve Saint Laurent 1970s and 1980s epicurean to higher levels, dripping opulence and extravagance over the iconic brand name via Vaccarello's own version of the carnal.  Which has, at times, reached so many climatic runaway highs,  it's difficult to offer a particular standout, except to say that his Fall 2024 collection, with its bear-it-all, sheer and enticing arrays gave us all a glimpse of what it was like, when a Friday night out held the very distinct possibility of dancing at a disco, and then sex later on, such was the indulgence and sexually liberated ethos of a generation that is now in their late Seventies.

And as a generalized critique or observation that is of Generation X (now in their Fifties), through its rigidness and confusion, has recopied the Babies Boomers parents, with a fervent desire for that redux Middle Class existence, has inadvertently reinstated 1950s esque conservatism, which is now morphing into the Far Right globally.  And we are so in need of a counterculture..."

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Full review: chiasmusmagazine.blogspot.com/2025/04/saint-laurent-fallwinter-2025-paris.html

(A.Glass 2025)