Excerpt: Saint Laurent. Fall/Winter 2025 - Paris Fashion Week

 

"...Individual styles and the fluidity to which they are worn, was very much Yve Saint Laurent's calling card within the sexually rampant 1970s, in its romanticized liberation to enjoy the hedonic without guilt and moral consequences.  

For Vaccarello's Fall 2025 collection, he has reflected the spill over of the 1970s carnal, which did indeed last throughout the 1980s, when it was satin, shoulder pads, cocktails, cigarettes, power suits and sex.  With a smattering of leopard prints, sheer tops, miniskirts and lace.  Moving away from Saint Laurent's bohemian chic 70s eros, Vaccarello has dived into those 1984 Wall Street ambitions, be it analogue colored VHS recorders with their washed out tones, and "Penthouse" magazines as reading material on the coffee table of the sleek office foyer.

And when viewing this collection, it reminds me of the fictional, yet poignant character "Marla Bloodstone" from the 1984 movie "Gremlins" who very much reflected that said moment in time.  In all of her chain smoking, power suit wearing and hypersexual grandeur, when she tried to seduce the nerdy star of the movie.

Vaccarello continues to impress, as he draws out the past to imprint onto the now."

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Full review: chiasmusmagazine.blogspot.com/2025/04/saint-laurent-fallwinter-2025-paris.html

(A.Glass 2025)