excerpt: Ann Demeulemeester. Fall 2025 - Paris Fashion Week

 

"This is Stefano Gallici's fourth runway show for Ann Demeulemeester, as the iconic 1990s and early 2000s goth avant-garde aesthetic, created by Demeulemeester, in which she retired from her own brand in 2013, and handed the reins to the capable French fashion designer Sébastien Meunier, who left in 2020 when the conglomerate Italian holding company New Guards Group (owned by the online giant clothing distribution company FarFetch, now owned by the mega South Korean ecommerce company 'Coupang'), bought the Ann Demeulemeester brand name in 2020.  Thereafter, unfortunately Ann Demeulemeester original and distinct take on 1800s Byronic romanticism, within its avant-garde flow, lost its uniqueness.  And after the former Rick Owens model and now fashion designer Ludovic de Saint Sernin, left after one runway show, one cannot dismiss, within its metaphor or not, that Ann Demeulemeester may have a kind of curse attached after she had sold her legacy, which is in name only.  Gallici, may indeed have an uphill battle ahead of him to reestablish Ann Demeulemeester's legacy.  

For Gallici's Fall 2025 collection he has evoked the mid to late 1970s doom stoner looks.  As a rock and roll homage to the many who had descended onto Los Angeles looking for fame and fortune during the 1970s, with many ending up in the boulevard of broken dreams, or wandering off into the desert on a road trip in search of meaning, under the Stars whilst doing LSD..."

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(A.Glass 2025)

Full review: chiasmusmagazine.blogspot.com/2025/04/ann-demeulemeester-fall-2025-paris.html