Louis Vuitton. Resort 2027 - New York City
As noted with Nicholas Ghesquière's Fall 2026 show, this return to form, and his imprinted tenure with Louis Vuitton, does remain to be elusive. Be it, Ghesquière's 1950s retrofuturism, of the future that never was, at least aesthetically, portrayed in all of its hope and glory with his stylizations, and dynamic cuts in representing 50s technology will 'set you free' ethos. This is his second New York City showing under the "Cruise" (or Resort) template, and a far cry from his first Resort 2020 collection, which was held at Trans World Flight Center at Kennedy International airport, designed by the late Finnish/American architect Eero Saarinen (d1961). With styles on show, that reflected the modernist possibilities, specifically if the counterculture years of the 1960s, 1970s and 1980s never occurred, and the cover art work of the 50s "Amazing Stories" came to life in the 21st Century.
And, Ghesquière with his latest Cruise showing may have indeed retapped his futurist impression, albeit in its mix and match offering. Drawing from his most recent collections, of the more boxer, heavy laded and with avant-garde styles, as a very slight return to form, or at least paying homage to his own timeline, more so Ghesquière's first NYC showing 6 years ago.
For his latest array, held at the 'Frick Collection' museum, on 1st East, 70th Street, New York, Ghesquière has certainly mixed in his renewed avant-garde, neo-futurist, and 1980s hedonic stylisations to his New York inspired collection, whilst reflecting an early 80s hedonic flow, considering he has incorporated the late NYC graffiti artist Keith Haring to some of the print work on show. Which, as a simulacrum of restless spirits, may only be representing a consumption based pampering to Haring's legacy, rather than any respectful homage. Overall the collection, as mentioned, somewhat returns Ghesquière to his earlier styles.
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(A.Glass 2026)
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