Ann Demeulemeester. Resort 2027 - lookbook
(Images: Ann Demeulemeester 2026)
Can we have the 1970s back, and a good potion of the 1980s. Please? Why not? Because maybe, just maybe hedonism is the antidote, so we can fuck Fascism into oblivion. We did it once before, why not again? Ronald Reagan, "Moral Majority" and all that attempts at pushing Far Right bullshit onto us within those two post counterculture years were held back by wine, cigarettes, sex, dancing and other 'drugs', and a lot of antiwar and anti nuke protests. An at the end of the day, we all had a buffer. And if we are allowed to blame Gen Xers newfound neoliberalism sensibilities into the 1990s, which by default allowed Trump to gain power twice, with Gen Ys complacency, and desire for mortgages and disinterest in the political, and Gen Zs nervous systems are all but fried, with the said generations caught between stability over change. Let's psychically reconnect to a time when we ruled the streets, in all of its gloriously messy, and shared chaos.
Stefano Gallici, is showing his prowess in conjuring the past, to which the label's once owner Ann Demeulemeester herself, followed by Sébastien Meunier, also did, albeit the 1800s Romantics, and Byronic antiheroes. Gallici's revamp of 1970s bohemia, and post 1960s Proto-Doom/psychedelic rock has reshaped the Ann Demeulemeester brand name, despite its turning over creative directors, and being bought by various conglomerates, the Demeulemeester curse may have been lifted.
And for his Resort 2027 collection, Gallici has incorporated a updated antihero for his James Dean, "East of Eden" outsider, "Caleb Trask", as a the 1970s New Cinema rebel I inspired heavily from the 1955 film), to which the latest collection offers the antithesis beautifully. Leathers, gothic pre punk, early to mid 70s aesthetics, ala New York City CBGB, with lace and flowing bohemian skirts, akin to the turbulent, yet liberating 1970s, be it rebellion, institutional rejection, freedom, and sex.
So, let's light an incense, turn your phone off, sit in a circle with your closest friends, and usher in the hendonic overtures.
Without fear or apprehension.
___
(A.Glass 2026)

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