A-Cold-Wall*. London Spring 2018 Men's
Samuel Ross returns with his Spring 2019 collection from his own signature and distinct brand A-Cold-Wall*, as noted with my review of his Fall 2018 collection there is a very unique and defined style and presentation with his collections. That stays separated from the confines of so called 'street wear' to be replaced by a very smart projection, as I construed in my Fall 2018 review as a titled "urban
influenced work wear".
The cities of the world are in a constant flux of being overbuilt and restructured daily. Mostly poorly designed and ad hoc structures that have been hastily thrown together in a low interest rate funding environment. The cronyism is widespread and despite the new cold war, globalism trade maintains the persistent sell which is not just limited to Chinese and Russian (London) investors. But, the everyday person who manages to muster together a deposit for a loan to buy one of these newer style apartments. It would by all accounts make a fan of JG Ballard, the late science fiction writer, predispose a future via his 1975 novel "High Rise" a significant backdrop of observation, not in any oracle sense. As it needs to be updated. But regardless, it may offer a warning that when a society wants to rise too quickly into what is sold as a "upper" middle class. It all may, at some point, face the reality that decay over prefabrication is more alluring than the Potemkin facade. So the questions can be asked now. Will this construction boom consume itself? And if so. What will be the eventual visual narrative? With the ultimate question to be asked. Will its consequences be all that negative?
Possibly Ross is reflecting this within his clothing styles and shows. Portrayed in a sub-level industrial style environment of the old Truman Brewery (1800s East London), remodeled and rebuilt but also with its history somewhat discarded. Seen only as an architectural reminder of the once stalwart of London industrialism, now sells only a reflection of its industrial past. Replaced by rotating exhibitions, shows and markets within the area known as 'Brick Lane' within its exclusive property boom. This in turn offers the viewer a vision through Ross's Spring 2019 collection. A very poignant reminder how important art can be in times where we are told through dualistic angles that art either holds a message or it doesn't, such are the polarized opinions viewed within our digital wonderland. But, culture is more complex than that and sometimes it is missed with an over analysis of artists and their merits. Without sounding paradoxical, the critic and or/person viewing if cleverly synced up by the artist and designer. The parallels are clear in their elucidation. Therefor the smart artist ensures that he or she have successfully aligned their vision of worlds to be a significant backdrop for a society and culture that resonates within its own confusion. And if done with skill, removes the duality.
Post structural decline and dystopic visions emanate from A-Cold-Wall's Spring 2019 collection. An ensemble as seen also from the Fall 2018 collection, of intricate cut and styled cotton and wool and nylon/polyamide pieces, from cropped style tops and shirts. Opened trench coats, redefined and set in sleek stylized configurations. Which I have not seen before, moving away from the tedium of minimalism and the tired avant garde styles of the last ten years. Ross's A-Cold-Wall is beginning to set an impressive standard with this new 'industrial' vision of style.
A perfectly matched and even color palette of light and dark grays, beige, burnt 'industrial' orange and reds, sharp, yet washed out yellows (like weather worn building paint), silver insulation. All set against the synthetic material crispness of stygian and achromatic whites.
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