Kiko Kostadinov. Fall 2020 Ready-to-Wear - London Fashion Week.

(Images from the designer and the public domain. Credited to the photographer/company where applicable: Gorunway.com)

Since Kiko Kostadinov the London Fashion designer allowed Australian twin sisters Laura and Deanna Fanning to take the reins as creative director's for his women's Ready-to-Wear collections, their induction into the fashion world is almost akin to a shock and awe of opportunity.  Very quickly since their graduation from Central Saint Martins, they were able to partner with the Bulgarian/English designer.  And within a year later of completing their studies at the London fashion school, the Fanning's presented their first Spring collection for London Fashion Week in 2018.  I have since covered all their Ready-to-Wear shows to date. 

For the most part the Fanning's have followed the Kostadinov template of his reworking modernist inspired themes that stand on the edge of luxury fashion and costume design, whilst at the same time the sister's have imprinted a finer and more structured array for their women's collections.  Experimenting with a lot more detail and adding accessories onto their Kostadinov inspired styles, testament to the successful range of handbags from their Spring 2019 'Parallel Botany' collection.  Yet, as mentioned, the styles are wedged respectfully between the brand's men's and women's collections, which have so far remained consistent within the various seasons shown.  

The Fanning's have solidified a very focused purpose for their Fall 2020 collection. The modernist cues of their benchmarked structured shapes stay accordant to the Kostadinov concept, with their skills in fine tailoring improving, however, as noted in my previous reviews of their RTW collections, the issue of taming synthetic material remains a struggle.  Viscose and polyester are notoriously hard fabrics to meld into a contoured shape. Particularly seen with the full length and midi dresses, causing, in most cases, styles to either bunch up around the hem or lose its visual integrity.  The cotton, fur and fine wool blends on some of the pieces, namely the legging inspired styles work very well, with the inserts of polymide and other synthetics, seen as cut shapes via Kostadinov styled pattern work.  Which in turn keeps the overall concept for the Fall 2020 showing confined to its science fiction montage.