Excerpt: Rick Owens. Women's Fall 2025 - Paris Fashion Week

 

"...Which can be seen in the use of smoke machines and those doomsdayism processions, which I deemed from the Lido 2020 shows, as Owens 'Oracle' witches, or Sibyls of Doom, warned that the pandemic was just the beginning of the end, and to be prudent, she asks that the arrogance of humanity be kept in check.  A backstory, which I personally felt represented the apocalyptical overtures of Owens 2020 and 2021 women's collections on Lido beach, before he returned to Paris in 2021.  Yet, Owens holding his shows within and outside the Palais de Tokyo, after briefly staging a handful of showings at his home in Paris, the monolith 1930s Art Deco structure representing Owens tomb like fixation, has ensured that the collections have become darker and a lot more brooding.  And dare I say, with a vampiric appeal?

The mythos of the vampire has ensured for Centuries, akin to selling your soul to the devil, for that thirst of immortality, fame and riches. But, it comes with a curse, a burden.   And for the gothic vampire, it is the sunlight, and to be forever hidden in the darkness.  Where it controls the stygian realm, until dawn, thus retreating back into its entombed enclosure.  Is Owens doing the same?  The 2024 and 2025 shows have certainly, as mentioned, become a lot more darker and entombed, whilst  hidden behind waves of Owens's own smokey 'nebbia'..."

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Full review: chiasmusmagazine.blogspot.com/2025/03/rick-owens-womens-fall-2025-paris.html

(A.Glass 2025)