excerpt: Yohji Yamamoto. women's Fall 2025 - Paris Fashion Week

 

"...To which Yamamoto referenced his age to the media in attendance, and that he is rushing against time. Yet his latest collection is far from being rushed, it is at what you expect with from Yamamoto who has been showing his collections for Paris Fashion Week since 1981. And it should be said, that the master doesn't master time, but rather, embodies time. To which Yamamoto may be referring to when he says he is, 'rushing against time'.

Yamamoto over his illustrious career, has experimented with the regimented military look, albeit within his recut and asymmetrical layering, and for his Fall 2025 showing he has reinstated those wartorn combatant styles to his women's collection. With heavy wool and leather insulated looks, and rectangular chain mail tops. Drapey long skirts, boots, masks and encompassing ankle length jackets, the collection offers an unyielding display of toughness, defiance and aggression. Is this Yamamoto's protest song? As he has always been admiring of youthful exuberance, however the youth have so far been unable to orchestrate a tangible counterculture after decades of middle class expectations. And we are all very close to our 11th hour, with Fascism on the rise, and global turmoil increasing by the day. Yamamoto's latest collection could be that aesthetical wakeup call, that the time for action is nigh."

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(A.Glass 2025)

Full review:  chiasmusmagazine.blogspot.com/2025/03/yohji-yamamoto-womens-fall-2025-paris.html