Yohji Yamamoto. Spring 2024 - Paris Fashion Week.

Yohji Yamamoto turned 80 in October 2023 and I have been reviewing his shows for nearly a decade, and I've aware of his brilliance as far back as the 1980's.  Yamamoto, to me is that quintessential 1980's designer, who, along with his partner at the time Rie Kawaboro of Comme des Garçons fame, redefined European fashion when they first appeared on the scene in the early 1980's.  It was the beginning of Avant-garde fashion as a runway spectacle, replacing some of the risqué of punk fashion, that had become somewhat of a trend in the years after 1977, via the late Vivienne Westwood.  The Japanese Avant-gardists such as Yamamoto and Kawaboro, brought the starkness and a bold layering, with their silhouettes encased in stygian void.   Upping the ante of workmanship of their extensive use of materials such as linen and fine wools, while masterful presenting their collections within its dark mystique.  Yamamoto and Kawaboro's impact on fashion will probably never be seen again, despite designers of today attempting to shake up the industry, it has been for the most part only seen as a simulacrum of what had already occurred, over thirty years ago.

And Yamamoto over the years as been able to craft his styles of the feminine with such an acknowledged finesse, that many young designers have not been able to emulate.  The beautiful layering of fabrics, the slight tweaks in fits and Yamamoto's intricate stitchwork.  Have ensured that his signature label maintains the template that he had created four decades ago.  And his Spring 2024 collection reiterates the Yamamoto imprint, despite his age.  And as the master designer that he is, with every Paris Fashion Week showing over the many years, Yamamoto has revealed an impressive show piece.  Without slowing down or scaling back collections, he has kept up the pace with his Paris Fashion Week attendance and its busy schedule. 

The precision layering, tweaking of fabrics and inserts of lace, have kept Yamamoto attuned to the sensuality of his Spring 2024 collection.  More so the mystique of the feminine, in reflection of its powerful sexual cues which are honored in subtleness.  His latest collection very much aligns with the trends forming for 2024 which is both the Avant-garde and the carnal, as a backdrop of a world in complete turmoil.  And with no defining counter culture yet to rise to the occasion.  We may indeed be at the 11th hour and it is Yamamoto's use of black as an encompassing void, which can through its nothingness, offer comfort.  Not to be afraid. 

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(A.Glass 2023)