Excerpt: Saint Laurent. Spring/Summer 2026 - Paris Fashion Week

 

"...Vaccarello is not delicate to his homage of the past, more so, as mentioned the counterculture decades.  In fact, he has the knack of unsettling the restless spirits while sourcing trends, not in any shockvalue way, but without much care.  Even though the said eras offered a much needed reversal from the rigid, conservative and dangerously oppressive 1950s Far Right leaning template, it also had a lot of hopefuls who were enticed by those liberating years, and yet ended up in the boulevard of broken dreams.   This has been seen with some of Vaccarello's earlier collections, be it the heroin chic stylisations, or the fallen starlet looks, which are not at all subtle, nor very respectful of those lost souls. 

Vaccarello's Spring/Summer 2026 collection is made up of two parts, the 1st, is the woman, gay inspired, leather styled, 'cruising' for sex looks, to the romanticism of the ballroom gown as the 2nd part.  A dichotomy of the feminine sexual cues, as opposed to the outwoundly desires of male sexuality?  Maybe.  Which gives the collection a slightly philosophical slant, within Vaccarello's impeccable styling.  Be it, the voraciousness of the 1970s and 1980s nymphomaniac, which is a terrible term, as is hypersexulaity, stigmatizing women and their own interest in sex.  And when all said and done at the end of the day, is a lot more sophisticated than a male.  Let the truth be known."

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(A.Glass 2025)

Full review: chiasmusmagazine.blogspot.com/2025/10/saint-laurent-springsummer-2026-paris.html