Kiko Kostadinov. Spring 2020 Menswear- London Fashion Week

(Images from the designer and the public domain. Credited to the photographer/company where applicable: Gorunway.com)      

Kiko Kostadinov's Spring 2020 menswear collection slams down and probably solidifies the modernist fashion trend for 2020.  Although as the creative director of a signature brand, he has been dabbling with science fiction retro styles ala 70's and 80's concepts since the creation of his brand, but with his Spring collection he lets loose like there is no tomorrow on his trademark and conceptualized designs.  Kostadinov's stylization of clean lined modernist cues plays out like a Syd Mead (the famed futurist and industry artist) night clubs interiors of the 21st century, which of course is the future we never had, except the projected and defined lines of a utopian product that may have been possible. Yet, it is the color schemes that were projected via conceptual artists that placed an emphasis on the clean and cultivated styles, very much set down from iconic modernist painters such as Adolphe Mouron Cassandre, who in turn influenced the typography that included the subtle and radiant of well positioned shapes and colors which advertising thrived on within the 1920s through to the 1950s.

I view Kostadinov less of an avant-garde designer and more of, as mentioned, a conceptional stylist with a focus of what one could deem as crossing over into consume design.  Which I have discussed with previous reviews of his shows, he has partnered with  the sportswear company Asics which in turn you can see the heavy use of synthetic materials.  This is where most colors will gleam from the use of polyester or polamide as its material base, it has an unmistakable ability to enrich the color palette when printed on its material.  Radiating the spectrum within its confined direction, that in turn causes less bleeding onto chosen pattern work.  The synthetics, particularly when digitally printed, can fast track clothing – hence getting them onto the racks quicker.  Sportswear brands are proficient and can develop a duplicated range, quickly and efficiently so that they can have them in department stores before competitors. Without following seasonal trends. 

Kostadinov's collection is solid and well presented, it holds down some very nice pieces, particularly the sports wear style jackets and coats, which I suspect Asics will market more so then some of the more experimental pieces.