Theory. Resort 2020 - New York
(Images from the designer and the public domain. Credited to the photographer/company where applicable: Theory)
Theory, the New York ready-to-wear fashion brand which is predominately owned by a Japanese textile company, with links to the fast fashion company Uniqo, has struggled to realign itself after its messy acquisitions of the last five years. In 2018 creative direction was handed to Francesco Fucci, a somewhat unknown in the fashion world, who has worked behind the scenes with some of the more established conglomerate fashion brands before taking up his current role with Theory. Since designing for the brand, he has been able to redefine the rigidity of some of its prior collections, whilst instilling the conservative styles, yet offering a more pliable affair. Promoted as attire for the corporate woman, to which Theory places its market presence towards the young professional.
As the modernist fashion trend marches forward into 2019, to which Fucci explained for his Resort 2020 collection citing that he wanted it to be a “...very modernist American.” One could theorizes that there has been a strange embracing of 1950s sensibilities mixed with 60s and 70s socially feigned 'inclusion' has taken hold upon markets, that in some cases have failed miserably, while at the same time brands are still trying to gauge what the possible trend of suburbanite stylizations (and sentiment) may entail. It's a hard task, but I feel Fucci has missed the mark here. Apparently in preparation for Theory's first Los Angeles store opening, he may have checked over too intently, the magnitude of 1920s Californian bungalows as a romanticized idealism of the Los Alamos nuclear family.
While Fucci has attended to soften the awkwardness of this collection, it still feels conservatively restrained. Which makes me think how the artistic direction and marketing for some of these brands are able to discern what they believe is a current trend. Are they off kilter or on the money? In any case if we are all going to delve into a rework of the modernist impressions that should have been put to rest sixty plus years ago. Maybe the television show 'Madmen' should be rebooted for the 21st century with open offices, inclusion committees and hypocrisy.
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