Rick Owens. Mens Spring 2020 - Paris Fashion Week

(Images from the designer and the public domain. Credited to the photographer/company where applicable: Gorunway.com)   

Rick Owens continues on with the hybrid fusion of a dark resonance with residual tinges of Larry LeGaspi's (Owens will be completing a biography of the famous designer) costume glamor, as seen with previous shows, with a new addition of visual and artistic conceptualization, that being his Mexican roots, his mother is from Puebla, Mexico.  Yet, he has stated that rather than a direct homage, Owens has instilled an “abstracted” discernment into the Mexican influence.  As viewed by previous seasons artistic cues are boundless for Owens, who with expertise can absorb and use everything and anything as a themed concept.  

Drawing from Aztec styles and tribal looks with cross culture dynamics, but cleverly, like the Western aesthetics of the designers over hundred years ago, combing the geometric Aztec art and ceremonial aspects to which in turn formed the design and architectural movement known as Art Deco.  Modernism is becoming one of the front and center trends for 2019, cleanly set and even toned color palette and geometrical contours seems to be the main play as we move into 2020.  Owens has only bridged minor elements of abstraction into his collection, the main focus is on modernist/Mexican fusion, which you wouldn't be aware of, as it is subtle, sans the Aztec Eagle logo of the United Farm Workers, the name of of the collection and jewelery as a acknowledged representation of Mexican artisan craftsmanship.  

Owens Spring collection is heavy duty, not known for the subtle, his latest array is tough, muscular and testosterone laced.  Jump suits, open collars and defined torsos. It's a power play on the masculine, leather is abundant, tampered pants with zips – in late 1970s punk style.  That when retrospectively studied, actually looked very tough and hardy in its first manifestation as a trend over forty years ago.  Owens is playing that uniformity appeal, that occurs after the individual (or individuals) spark it off.  Such is the paradox of defining styles collectively from an individual idea.  The femininity of LeGaspi's constume allurement has been absorbed by Owens and redirected as a supercharged male collection.  Which I think plays on a very interesting twist to the unisex banner, that I feel only works leaning towards the feminine i.e women in mens styles.  This is Owens's first collaboration with the sports brand Champion, which may indicate the reason for a solid toughness of his Spring 2020 collection. Champion as a brand originated in 1919 as clothing worn by Gridiron players (American football).  The embroidery motifs on the loin style t-shirts displayed with this collection, if looked at closely represent, what looks like an extended pentagram (also on jewelry) with the Champion symbol in the middle. There is some irony there, as the many independent designer brands will look to collaborative sports companies for venture investments.  Maybe a sign of the times.