Salvatore Ferragamo. Spring 2020 menswear- Florence.

(Images from the designer and the public domain. Credited to the photographer/company where applicable: Gorunway.com)

For newly appointed creative directive Paul Andrew, who was able under Salvatore Ferragamo's branded legacy to use, as a first, the famous Palazzo Vecchio's courtyard which had recently and in a meticulous fashion, beautifully restored the Fountain of Neptune, to be the back drop for Salvatore Ferragamo's Spring 2020 menswear collection. A snapshot history of the Palazzo Vecchio as a Florentine museum and tower since its construction in 1299 has been developed, built and expanded from Roman ruins to a medieval fortress into the Renaissance enclosure of what is still standing today, within its labyrinth of rooms and chambers filled with art and artifacts.  It's 700 year old history is nothing less than impressive. 

Yet, Salvatore Ferragamo as a Italian fashion house independently owned by the Ferragamo family, by comparison is still very new in its historic impression.  In was only in the last 70 years of Salvatore's expansion, after his study and beginnings in America, did the brand become significant when he returned back to Italy.  To this day, Salvatore Ferragamo's legacy continues on with his vision of a modern sleekness which is synonymous with the brand's signature designs.  So the contrasts between the old and new via Andrew's debut at the Palazzo Vecchio are strikingly evident. 

There is a toughness in this collection which I like, it flows with a masculinity which is nice to see return to the runways.  Andrew has affixed the street styles and sports wear arrays but with maturity and sophistication which is what you'd expect from the Italian brand.  The polyamide and fine wool blends, expertly fitted onto the models exude the 1960s and early 1970s resonance of Beat poet looks with a modern take on rebel 70's styles.  Actually a very unique combination of head scarfs and sleek futuristic attire.  Like a 70's street gang from New York raided a Salvatore Ferragamo store of the 21st Century (due to a divergence in the time-line).  Also noted are jump suits worn by both the male and female models. One of the more sensual styles, particularly for women is the one piece jump suit, when crafted into a modern bohemian style.  But, Andrew has maintained the direction of the Salvatore Ferragamo's collection to remain in the modern and defined arena.  As mentioned there are some pre-seasonal samples for the women's collection intermixed with the Spring 2020 showing.  One piece caught my eye on a female model which was the white oversize t-shirt with the hanging ropes/tassels.  Wearing a headband in similar fashion to the male models.  Of the trends that has yet to make a broad impact in 2020 collection, are the hanging tassels, but they are such an impressive and interesting look. 

The colors for Salvatore Ferragamo keep in line the subtle tones noted for the brand, these are the washed out browns, greens and pastels.  However, the modernist and slick designs remain projected, ensuring the palette does not stray away from its sharp contrasts, despite the evenness of its spectrum.  Also, as a side note, seen on one of the male models is the use of pink shirt against black leather board shorts.  Pink, can and offer to the designer a darker and avant-garde contrast, rather than a color attuned with femininity. Very underutilized.